Fret 24. It's your last fret, so as long as fret 23 plays OK, then there's nothing to really worry about. Those last upper frets aren't affected by any truss rod adjustments, so just try to get them all as level as you can. if frets 21, 22 and 23 are level, then the blade should slide across to 24 without hitting it. It doesn't matter if the last fret is slightly lower than the others, you just don't want it higher.
If I'm levelling the whole fretboard, I tend to try and put a very slight downward slope (say from 20th to the 24th in your case) on those last few frets so that there's no risk of any bent strings on those upper frets choking out. I find this quite useful on smaller radius boards, though it's less important as the fretboard radius increases and the board is flatter.
I bought a proper crowning file from the pit bull store to use for this. I understand the shape of the file means that the crowned fret retains its curvature, but is there anything else I need to do to prevent the fret from going flat at the top?
The crowning file should be curved enough. I then use some wet 'n' dry paper (dry) to remove the file marks (normally P320 to P400 depending on how deep any scratches are, then go up the grades of Micromesh (1500 to 12000) to really get the fret smooth.
I use an offcut of top E string to drag along the top of the fret when using the sandpaper. If there are any scratches left, you'll feel the string pulling as it passes over. Once nothing happens, then start on the Micromesh. Alternately if you haven't got Micromesh pads or cloth, run through the grades to sandpaper up to P2000 or P2500, then rub the frets with some 0000 wire wool. This is a bit messier and the wire wool dust gets everywhere, so tape over pickups etc.
It never hurts to then use some metal polish on the frets.
You'll find the frets look a lot more rounded once they are polished. They can look a bit flat on the top when just filed.
Just wondering, is fretboard levelling usually an iterative process? I've gone from fret 24 to fret 1, but I've found that some of my filing has caused other frets not to be quite level any more. So I've gone back to 24 and started making my way down again.
Well, not in my attempts. Have you just used a crowning file? You'd normally run a flat-bottomed fret levelling file all along the top of the frets first, having first marked the top of each fret with something like a Sharpie pen, filing until all the Sharpie marks have gone from the top of the frets. Then you use the fret crowning file, then run through the polishing grit sandpapers/micromeshes.
I try and count the number of strokes with the crowning file and do the same number on each fret. The same with the sandpapers. It's not perfect but it does keep the frets pretty much the same height.
Yeah, I was just using the crowning file. I think I may have got confused - I didn't realise there was a fret levelling file. I might get myself one of those
You can use a flat beam with sandpaper stuck to it with double-sided tape if you want a more DIY approach. You need it at least 15-20cm long, so that it will always bridge several frets at the headstock end of the neck.
I use a spirit level about 30Cm long which obviously has a machined face and stick a length of low tack masking tape to the level and another piece of low tack tape stuck to the sanding paper then super glue the two bits of masking tape together.
Use a fairly fine grit and only use the weight of the level you don't need to lean on it at all.
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