Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 31

Thread: My SG Jr Kit

  1. #11
    Nice looking kit! Once again I'm inspired to go buy an SG (even though I'm failing to finish any of my current builds...)
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  2. #12
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Glebe, NSW
    Posts
    5,666
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnH View Post
    Nice looking kit! Once again I'm inspired to go buy an SG (even though I'm failing to finish any of my current builds...)
    We seem to be on the same wavelength there John! They are a cool little kit.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  3. #13
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,206
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnH View Post
    Nice looking kit! Once again I'm inspired to go buy an SG (even though I'm failing to finish any of my current builds...)
    I was in the same place... so I ordered a custom SG-M kit with the LP style bound rosewood fretboard with trapezoid inlays from Adam, with tonerider Alnico 2 pickups. That fixed the inspiration, even though I have to wait for March for delivery! 😊😊😊

  4. #14
    I have ordered up my sandpaper, steel wool and glue this evening. Hopefully will get started on the sanding just after Christmas, if not it will be the New Year now.

    What is the best clear coat to use on the neck for a glass-like finish? And would I also use it on the fretboard? Also, Do I sand the end of the neck that will be glued into the body, or is it best to leave this rough for gluing purposes?

  5. #15
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,206
    Hello! Not sure I'm qualified to answer any of these but heres some thoughts.
    Don't sand the neck joint until you have tried the fit and only then if necessary. It is vital the neck and bridge line up correctly. I get a piece of cotton, tape it to the center of the nut, run it down the centre of the fret markers and check it against a pencil line drawn on the body i
    n the centre of the bridge holes. Or you could mount both E string machine heads and strings, using them to sight the line across the bridge.
    Don't press in the bridge mounting posts yet as they are devils to get out!!!
    Last edited by Andyxlh; 17-12-2017 at 10:10 AM.

  6. #16
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,206
    There's loads of options for good clear. I like Cabot's polyurethane clear on timber, goes very hard but takes a week or two to really go off. I'm sure others on here can give you other good options.

  7. #17
    Overlord of Music dave.king1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Woonona by the sea
    Posts
    2,721
    I use low tack tape to mark out the body, I don't like adding marks to the wood

  8. #18
    I have just test fitted the neck and marked the centre of the bridge and neck and ran a bit of string down the line and everything looks bang on.

    I'm assuming there is meant to be a slight back angle on the neck when it's seated into the body?

  9. #19
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld.
    Posts
    3,261
    Yeah, neck should angle back 3-4 degrees, that's normal.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  10. #20
    Finally going to start this in the next day or two. I've now decided what colour and hardware I'm going for, too!

    How do you know when you have sanded enough with one grade of sand paper before moving onto the next grade? Or when you have finished with the finest grade to start painting? Are we talking a couple of hours with each grade, or are we talking sanding over the course of a couple of days?

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •