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Thread: Hello from Perth

  1. #1
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Hello from Perth

    Hi,
    I'm not a carpenter, painter, electrician or polisher...but apart from that I'm sure I have all the qualifications required for a guitar build.
    I have a ES-3 kit coming next year and as this will be my first build I'll have many ignorant questions for the good Pit Bull community.
    Let me start with these ones.
    What have been people's experience with the plastic nut on the guitar neck? Is replacement with a bone nut recommended?
    What glues are people using to attach set necks to the body?
    Thanks in advance for any advice offered. Looking forward to starting (and finishing) the build.

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum DarkMark. I am sure you have all the qualifications, needed....enthusiasm!
    I always replace the plastic nut with bone. "bone for tone"
    Use Original Titebond to glue the set neck.
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  3. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Welcome Aboard Darkmark!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  4. #4
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    May 2013
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    Hornsby Area, Sydney, NSW
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    Welcome DarkMark.

    So far I stayed with the supplied nuts on my guitars. It is always something that you can go back to later if you really want to. From my point of view, I'd rather gain the set up skills on the supplied nuts before I spend extra cash on bone nuts.
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  5. #5
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    The "Fabulous" Gold Coast
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    Welcome Mark.
    I've used the plastic ones, bone ones and brass ones. Can say the brass ones are defiantly brighter, not a massive difference with bone BUT bone is SO much easier to adjust for set up, well worth the few dollars.
    Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
    Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
    Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
    Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
    Build 15 PBG-2-
    Build 14 FTD-1
    Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
    Build 12 DM-1S
    Build 11 MKA-2 -
    Build 10 Basic strat
    Build 9 JM Kustom
    Build 8 FV-1G
    Build 7 ES-2V
    Build 6- Community prototype
    Build 5 LP-1LQ
    Build 4 ES-5V
    Build 3 JR-1
    Build 2 GD-1
    Build 1 TLA-1

  6. #6
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Toowoomba, Qld.
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    Welcome Aboard DarkMark. I'll put my two cents in, I like the Tusq nuts.

    But to be fair thats only in comparison to the plastic ones, I've not tried a bone or brass one yet. The biggest advantage from my point of view is how cleanly the string slides through the grooves when tuning, not stuttering or grabbing. This is also pretty important if you want to add a tremolo as a lot of the going out of tune problems stem from the string grabbing on the nut/bridge/string trees.

    Tone is such a nebulous thing to talk about as there are sooo many factors that affect it, not least of which is your own personal preference. I think I can hear an improvement using the Tusq vs a normal plastic one and I've seen many people swear by the bone nuts for that reason.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  7. #7
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Dec 2012
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    Perth WA
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    Welcome to the forum Mark, good to have another Perth builder onboard.
    Take your time and you will end up with a nice axe
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  8. #8
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Thank you for the welcome and opinions everyone. Some familiar names here from my readings.
    I'm tempted to replace the nut from the get go to avoid potentially damaging the finish at a later stage.
    My string of choice are flat wounds and I rarely use open strings but I'll keep thinking about it.

  9. #9
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hi Mark, being a first build I would use the plastic nut to set up the guitar. You can even knock it out carefully (to break the glue bond) and the string tension will leave it in place then when you are ready to replace to a bone nut just release the string tension and shape the bone nut to fit.
    It will take quite a lot of massaging to get the bone nut correct, string height and nut slot widths/shape
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  10. #10
    Mentor DarkMark's Avatar
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    Sep 2017
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    Perth, WA
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    Sounds like good advice, thanks.

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