Daves SG Build Whist Waiting for the clear to dry on my LP

[wazkelly]

Yep I tried that but the wood is so dam hard it is hard to make in impression hence I have used some sealer in hope that it will help with my next sanding pass.

You may have just trapped those machine marks under a layer of sealer. They will not go away until they have been sanded out. Not sure adding more sealer will disguise things enough to be not noticeable when stain has been applied.
Acknowledge it is a lot of work, particularly with some timber species.

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[DaveC64]

Yey it worked marks be gone. I used U buet sanding sealer. I did take your advice on one mark and went with the direction of a bad mark and then when it was gone sanded with the grain again. I have applied one more coat of sealer rub down tomorrow and onto the dyes when they arrive strange how the sealer arrived first when I ordered it last. Karma The wood is now looking much better and the colour is a lot less noticeable now.

[wazkelly]

Yey it worked marks be gone. I used U buet sanding sealer. I did take your advice on one mark and went with the direction of a bad mark and then when it was gone sanded with the grain again. I have applied one more coat of sealer rub down tomorrow and onto the dyes when they arrive strange how the sealer arrived first when I ordered it last. Karma The wood is now looking much better and the colour is a lot less noticeable now.

Good to hear things are working out fine for you.

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[DaveC64]

The dying commences I have used cedar to take the initial colour on the top plank down to match the bottom plank.


I want to go cherry for the middle and dark almost black for the edges. I will have to experiment with the mix probably red and a little cedar. I will have to work out the ratio the dyes are extremely strong I only used probably 10% die rest warm water.
I think this is ready now.

[Kick]

Well done job!

[DaveC64]

After 2 coats of cuprinol Mahogany stain a few more coats still required to get down to the colour I am after.

[stan]

Well done Dave, you evened that out nicely, i like the plan for the finished colours

[Guvna19]

You may have just trapped those machine marks under a layer of sealer. They will not go away until they have been sanded out. Not sure adding more sealer will disguise things enough to be not noticeable when stain has been applied.
Acknowledge it is a lot of work, particularly with some timber species.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

machine marks aside , some stains, ie finger marks, pencil marks, water marks come out easier upon sanding a 'wet' sealer.

remember years of removing the carpenters grubby pencil and dirt which was far easier to eliminate when sanding a 'wet just sealed' timber than to dry sand it prior.
i was was amzed how some machine marks and other oddities including colour varibles where more easily seen wet.
soz for ramble..lol

[DaveC64]

And now I am almost there the back looks dark enough I will see how it is in the morning. the front does not look as red as in the photo.

I am going a little darker on the front then I will spray the head stock black and the edges of the body Hopefully it should give a feathered in look all around the outside. This one I will not be attaching the neck until the body and neck are painted and dried. I attached the LP neck before painting because I wanted a seamless join to the body which is what I achieved. If it was bolt on I would have done the same as this one.

[DaveC64]

And here we are again ready for the clear next week.

The neck and head is the same colour as the body I have primed the headstock on the front top and the sides. I will sand it down and then apply a totally black face sides head and back and blead it into the neck then at the shoulder spray it black and blead into the neck.
Hopefully that will work out it wont be until mid next week now before I have any more updates.
Hope ye all like it.