PBG 6 Inline Headstock Design

[Fretworn]

I think is perfect for the finished guitars.

[adam]

Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, this will be for finished guitars, predominantly, but I do like the idea of offering as it an option for all our ST, TL and JM kits.... for those who would struggle shaping their own.

We will still offer the blank Paddle headstock on all kits and can even order some undrilled as another option.

[Zandit75]

Seems like a nice design, however, are the tuning holes shown in the diagram in an accurate position?
Their current position don't look to promote a straight string pull.

[Sonic Mountain]

Hi Zandit, The tuner holes are not precisely located - the initial drawing was done based on several tracings I found on the forum, so are a bit of a best guess.

I can see what you are saying, they probably need to come down a bit - the space from the top of the headstock was based on my JMA headstock, which had a fair bit of variance between the holes, which makes it difficult to be really accurate. They are there mostly to give an idea but the main focus was on the actual shape, and its just that outline that has been sent.

If you look at the 'blank' drawing, I am not sure I have the break angle for the headstock in relation to the neck exactly right, which will affect that.

We are currently seeing how close I got, so there may be some fine tuning to do yet. Good pick up though, I will keep that in mind.

[Zandit75]

Hi Zandit, The tuner holes are not precisely located - the initial drawing was done based on several tracings I found on the forum, so are a bit of a best guess.

I can see what you are saying, they probably need to come down a bit - the space from the top of the headstock was based on my JMA headstock, which had a fair bit of variance between the holes, which makes it difficult to be really accurate. They are there mostly to give an idea but the main focus was on the actual shape, and its just that outline that has been sent.

If you look at the 'blank' drawing, I am not sure I have the break angle for the headstock in relation to the neck exactly right, which will affect that.

We are currently seeing how close I got, so there may be some fine tuning to do yet. Good pick up though, I will keep that in mind.

No worries bud, glad to help!

[Simon Barden]

To get the straightest string pull you need align the holes so that the bottom edge of the fitted tuner post (+ ½ a typical string diameter) is in line with the appropriate string nut slot. To some extent this will vary with the tuners fitted by between 1 and 2mm depending on post thickness and amount of curvature of the post. In practice it will also depend on how many turns of string you end up with round the post. For most standard tuners, the more turns you have, the bigger the diameter of the post at the point the string comes off.

Locking tuners tend to have straight-sided posts, as they don't need a convex-sided shape to push the strings up against itself where it passes through the hole to help lock it in place.

You'd really need to get hold of the tuners fitted to the finished guitars and work out the post diameter at (I'd suggest) around 3 or 4 wraps of string (2 to 3 for the thicker bottom E string) and work back from there as to the centre point of the tuner holes.

[Sonic Mountain]

Yes, thats good in theory but I don't know how much we can do about the factory accuracy. When you are talking 1 or 2mm that is the kind of tolerance we are already working at. Good information none the less and makes sense. It's certainly an area on the kits I'd like to see improved, so including an accurate mark up of them can only be a good thing.

[Tweaky]

IMHO the proposed head stock looks very similar to a G&L head stock.

[Sonic Mountain]

Perhaps, but there is no real mistaking that headstock either. Its a fine line to walk between the already established shapes to be different without doing something completely outlandish and divisive.

[Simon Barden]

Yes, that's good in theory but I don't know how much we can do about the factory accuracy. When you are talking 1 or 2mm that is the kind of tolerance we are already working at. Good information none the less and makes sense. It's certainly an area on the kits I'd like to see improved, so including an accurate mark up of them can only be a good thing.

I'd like to think that I could work at sub-1mm accuracy using hand tools so I'd hope that the factory could be persuaded to do likewise, especially if they are using CNC machinery. Of course it all depends on the factory setting up the CNC machines correctly to start with, otherwise they're just making consistently wrong necks.

Hopefully Adam can get the factory to provide some sample necks using the new headstock design to check before signing-off on it for production.