Finalised shaping of the neck- now we enter the time of eternal sanding...
Last edited by Bass Guy; 21-02-2018 at 02:49 PM.
"Music is in the air; it's my job to pull it out."- Jaco Pastorius
The Thylacine will sport a reverse headstock (rough design sketched out) and I've redone the chambering area. I can chew out more of the body than before now that I don't need to worry about the neck join.
"Music is in the air; it's my job to pull it out."- Jaco Pastorius
I'd double check your headstock machinehead positions if you want a straight string-pull. Which way do you plan to have the strings go around the string posts - clockwise or anti-clockwise? I'll refer to the orientation shown in the photo, where the bottom E string is as on the 'top' side and the G string as on the 'bottom' side.
If clockwise (which I'd say is more normal), then the top edge of each string post needs to be level with the bottom edge of the associated nut slot. If anti-clockwise, then the bottom edge of each string post needs to be level with the top of each nut slot.
As drawn (and assuming a clockwise string wrap), it looks like the strings will be splayed upwards.
I'd spend some time drawing the basic nut and hole locations on some tracing paper, then mark those on the headstock, and then look at the outline. Note that the string posts will be a bit smaller than the required hole size, and the exact dimensions will depend on the machineheads chosen. Also dependent on the machinehead choice is the amount of wood required between each hole and the bottom edge of the headstock.
I've been trying to fit my bassist's choice of standard Fender sized Hipshot clover-leaf tuners on the EB4 build headstock, but with the larger Xtender tuner on the bottom E, it was impossible to get a layout that worked, so now I've had to order some of the Hipshot mini-tuners. Those standard clover-leafs take up a lot of real-estate.
I'd assume your hole locations will probably need to be moved down a bit, which might affect your headstock design as a result. You may even need to glue another piece to the bottom of the headstock if you aren't going for compact tuners. So it's much better to double check everything now, rather than find out after holes have been drilled and shapes cut.
Assumptions are dangerous... 😉
The tuning machines I'm looking at are essentially lefties and mini-clover leafs, so it should be streamlined to the eye and operate in the "correct" orientation.
In no way are the positions finalised- this was purely to get an idea in physical form. I won't be going anywhere near shaping the headstock until the nut arrives so I can align the placement of the tuners with the actual nut spacing.
Lots of things to do before these bits of carvery- cutting the channel for truss rod for one. Ordering the truss rod for another...
"Music is in the air; it's my job to pull it out."- Jaco Pastorius
The necks looking good man. You’ve inspired me to pull out my drawing pad and start sketching out some more designs (I’ve given up on illustrator lol)
#001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
#002 (WL-1)
#003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
#004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
#005 (LP jr)
#006 (TL-1A)
Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
'The TGS Special'
This is incredible Bass Guy.
I can sort of see that building a body from scratch is humanly possible but a neck !!! So much precision work required and so much potential for error! Amazing work.
Gluing the wings to the neck. It's starting to become an instrument now...
"Music is in the air; it's my job to pull it out."- Jaco Pastorius
Very cool. I especially like the echidna standing guard over it.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.