Overlander's IB-5 - First kit build.

[Overlander]

Looking good Mally'

Yes, after doing the dummy assembly, there is a bit of a gap between pickup and the pickup cavity... I think I will extend whatever finish I go with into the cavity and see how it looks... I do like your idea of making it black though....

As for mounting the bridge, maybe lay some quality masking tape as I did to protect the finish whilst you mark out and drill the bridge?

I plan to recess the cavity cover plate, so I have drawn up a new one which should follow the outer contour of the body a little better than the original cover plate...



I have an idea to use the same (slightly more fancy) material on the cover plate and truss rod cover plate to continue the theme throughout....

[Overlander]

So I have made a bit more progress today...

After a bit more thinking and review of the tools on hand, I opted to clean up the internal shape of the stock control cavity and then run around with the router to create a 10mm wide, 2mm deep rebate around the cavity opening. From this I can copy the shape and cut the new cover.

I also got a Shielding Kit from PBG. I think I'm correct in saying that the shielding is done once the exterior finish is complete.

If the exterior finish isn't going a to be sprayed and cost the inside a of the control and pickup cavities... How good is the tapes adhesive?

I have done some searching but nothing has come to light....

Will the shielding tape stick to the bare timber, or am I better off to seal the cavity with something first to give the tape best chance of staying put?

Was thinking maybe a carefully applied watered down PVA or a thin coat of acrylic paint perhaps??

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[FrankenWashie]

I’ve found the copper shielding tape goes onto timber fine, as long as it’s a clean surface and not too rough.
No real issues with longevity, once it’s in, it’s staying put.

[wazkelly]

Have to agree with Frankie. No point putting any finish inside the control cavity.

Underneath the soapbar pickups you may want to consider using matt black paint or use a conductive black shielding paint that can be bought on eBay. I used the stuff on both Explorers and also in the J Bass too, however copper tape was eventually put in the control cavities as an extra level of hum protection. On my current MMB-4 build I will also use the shielding paint again. Didn't bother using it on the Tele's as they are notoriously noisy at the best of times and copper taped everywhere just to be safe.

[Overlander]

Great info, thanks guys..... I'm guessing the copper tape can be painted black too....

I didn't get as much progress today.... Just attached a dummy neck/handle in preparation for application of the black Timber mate to fill and pop the grain....

I did the damp cloth thing with water to see the if there was any glue or other weird stuff that I needed to address first and, lo and behold....

There are a few spots that I'd assume are glue between the sections.. sounds like wire brush or goof-off may be required there...

But more unusual is some quite large areas at the tail end of the body both front and back that have me a bit concerned..... Seems like there is something that's preventing the water wetting the grain.

Seems there is more hours of sanding to be done

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[wazkelly]

Great info, thanks guys..... I'm guessing the copper tape can be painted black too....

I didn't get as much progress today.... Just attached a dummy neck/handle in preparation for application of the black Timber mate to fill and pop the grain....

I did the damp cloth thing with water to see the if there was any glue or other weird stuff that I needed to address first and, lo and behold....

There are a few spots that I'd assume are glue between the sections.. sounds like wire brush or goof-off may be required there...

But more unusual is some quite large areas at the tail end of the body both front and back that have me a bit concerned..... Seems like there is something that's preventing the water wetting the grain.

Seems there is more hours of sanding to be done

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Glue joint near control cavity which is quite common on most bodies as they are made from several planks of timber. Behind bridge area looks strange and does appeat to be a bit like thin film of glue? More sanding or have a go with goof off should remove that.

On the shielding, humbuckers don't usually require copper tape but your choice if you wNt to do them too. Not sure black paint will stick too well which may also remove some of the shield too.

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[Overlander]

Cheers Was.....

I found some Goof Off at the local hardware.. the bottle of liquid, not the aerosol.... Hopefully that may get it off...

It was also surprising how much the fine fibres lifted up after the damp cloth...

As for copper tape under the pickups, I'm thinking if the tape stopped 10mm below the edge it wouldn't be the end of the world.....

Onward and upward...

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[Overlander]

So a few small updates.....

Ebony grain filler was watered down and rubbed into the body and let dry for 24hrs...

Thankfully the days are getting warmer so it dried quite well..

I guess I was expecting it to be quite dark. Still quite a bit more sanding to get it where I want it.

Also spent a bit of time sanding the neck, edge of the fretboard etc. A few minor marks that are quite deep, so I think I'll leave em alone. Just need to tidy up the nut a bit more..

I got into the wiring too... So its all happening!!!

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[wazkelly]

2nd last shot indicates factory machine marks hadn't been removed with sanding.

High up on the arm cut so shouldn't be too noticeable.

[Overlander]

2nd last shot indicates factory machine marks hadn't been removed with sanding.

High up on the arm cut so shouldn't be too noticeable.

Wow good spotting Waz.....

I hadn't noticed anything with the naked eye. The close up with the camera reveals all eh!!

I better start wearing the reading glasses and check the rest of the body 8) and keep on sanding.......

The pic above of the back of the body is grain filled, not yet sanded.

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