Yes, sure. In my original post when I said the taper faces to the headstock I was attempting to describe that the high side is on the headstock side and the low side is to the fretboard. (Note to self, get a macro-capable camera).
Yes, sure. In my original post when I said the taper faces to the headstock I was attempting to describe that the high side is on the headstock side and the low side is to the fretboard. (Note to self, get a macro-capable camera).
Hi Vox that's what I worked out when I read your first post again.
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scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
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scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
I'm still very confused. Maybe it's a northern/southern hemisphere thing.
Hi Vox, the nut should slope downward toward the headstock, I checked mine on the jazz bass and Precision.
If you have some files you can always file the slope the other way. If you haven't got bass nut files use a set of old wound round strings like dental floss and lower the nut slots a little if needed. Be easier than posting it back and getting a right hand nut sent back
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Hi Simon, As a Mancunian (of many years' absence) let me try to explain. With the plastic/kit nut the strings would run from the tuners and ascend the nut's taper/ramp until reaching the highest point, at the fretboard end - thence on to the bridge - eventually.
However, with the bone nut (E string notches being constant) the strings would run from the tuner to the top of the taper/ramp and then descend across the nut to the fretboard & on to the bridge. As I said, the two nuts are mirror image.
It's just that if the white nut is the bone one (the yellow one seems to be PBG standard yellow so I'm assuming that's the plastic one), and the E slot is nearest the camera in the right hand picture, then the left side would be the headstock side and the right-hand side the fretboard side - and the slope on the bone nut would be correct. I can only assume that it is in fact the G slot nearest the camera, which would make the slope reversed.
Ahh....now I see the problem! The plastic nut is the white one!
Sorry, but I had assumed that all would recognise the yellow one as being bone.
Note to self, don't assume. Assumption - the mother of all ph@^& ups!
A-ha! All is revealed. I've never seen a bone nut that yellow before and a lot of the PBG nuts are the same yellow.
Yes, definitely sloping the wrong way for a R/H nut. But as you'll probably need to cut the string slots deeper (I use the pointy end of a round needle file for bass nuts), then you'd probably want to file the top of the nut down anyway. It doesn't need a slope, it's more aesthetic than anything, and a lot of Fender-style nuts are pretty flat at the top, albeit with a square edge on the fretboard side and a rounded-off edge on the headstock side.
Try it in place without any glue, see how much the string slots need to come down by then guestimate how much the top of the nut could be filed down. In theory the minimum slot depth is 1/2 a string (which is how DB normally cuts them), but if you ever bend the strings at all, it's very easy to unseat a string so I prefer most of a full string's depth to the nut slots on my guitars and basses.
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