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Thread: Melkors LPM-1L

  1. #31
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    Thanks Simon, due to the contours on the front of the body, what would be the best way to sand it back? I have a 5 inch orbital sander or should I do it by hand with wet and dry. Or maybe some other way? I am assuming Auto grade cutter and polish to get the real shine going?

  2. #32
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    By hand with wet and dry. Use a block on the flat surfaces. Don't start with anything too coarse unless you really need to smooth out noticeable dips. I'd probably start at P600 (P400 minimum) and run up to P1500 or even P2000. After that, if you've got MicroMesh cloth or pads, then you can go from 3000 up to 12000 (MicroMesh has a different grit grading system to Wet and Dry). If you haven't got any Micromesh, then car cutting and polishing compounds will still give a shine - it's just takes a bit longer.

    But it it is important to let the clear coat cure (the hardening stage after drying) thoroughly. The harder it is, the better the shine. You can use soft buffing pads in a drill to help with the polishing, but keep the pad moving and don't use too fast a speed. Friction can heat the surface and cause it to soften if you leave the pad in one place for too long. Even hand buffing can cause this, so keep moving around and go over the surface briefly multiple times rather than pick one spot and keep at that.

  3. #33
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    Thanks Simon, I'll get that hair out and go from there. Thanks for the advice mate.

  4. #34
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    Hello again all,

    finally able to get back onto my little project which has stalled somewhat. I will post some recent pics soon but I have replaced some of the kit parts with better stuff, (pups, bridge saddle and tailpiece and some decent tuning pegs).
    Cya.

  5. #35
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    Here are some pics showing the finish and copper shielding in the wiring cavity.

  6. #36
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    Maybe not. Can't figure this out.

  7. #37
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Hey I’m on mobile atm so it’s a pain to link, but if you go into the build diary part of the forum there is a sticky regarding posting images via imugr
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  8. #38
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    Melkor here is the link to the sticky Sonic was talking about http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=8108

  9. #39
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  10. #40
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    Aha! If you can see the attached link it will show some pics of my project. A bit of info:
    Gotoh tuning pegs, bridge saddle and stoptail. Bone nut by PBG, perfect! Some minor fitting of the strings but otherwise spot on. Staining job was a muck up but came out reasonably well. Just in the prosess of trying my hand at the wiring (will post more pics soon). Tone rider A4 pup set. Setting up the neck and doing the frets was interesting to say the least. Fret rocker tools are worth their weight in gold.

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