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Thread: Melkors LPM-1L

  1. #11
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    image of nut issue

    Here's a pic of the nut on my guitar. Looking on Youtube this should be a relatively easy fix. Just looking for advice on the best way to go about it.
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  2. #12
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hi Melkor,
    just tap the nut with a small hammer to break the glue bond, If you have a fret hammer that is ideal. Then with a sharp blade or small saw you should be able to cut/saw the binding and remove what is under the nut. Don't glue the nut back on till the guitar is strung up and you might have to adjust the height of the nut - they are generally too high
    Current Builds and status
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  3. #13
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    Thanks Wokka, I thought that would be the case. I reckon I'll replace it with a bone nut and that will be a job that I complete somewhere at the end of the build. I have to add pics via my work computer so here are a couple for when I un-boxed it on Friday. looks like a kit guitar in a box!
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  4. #14
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    kit looks good Melkor. The images are too small to get any detail but looks like some nice flame maple
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  5. #15
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    I saved them at the smallest resolution so I will send the next ones at a bigger size. I have to load up on sandpaper and other bits an pieces before I get started, so more pics to come in the future. Thanks for the advice mate.

  6. #16
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    no worries Melkor. In case you haven't read from others, the flame maple veneers are very thin so I usually only run a light 320 grit paper over it. Its less than 1mm thick so very easy to sand through. Don't worry about any small pits or bumps on the surface, the clear coat will fill all the pits and you will get it flat.
    Rest of the body will need a fair bit of sanding from 120/180 grit to remove machine marks
    Last edited by wokkaboy; 21-08-2017 at 04:10 PM.
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  7. #17
    Member ILRGuitars's Avatar
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    I guess you are looking to stain the top, I usually stain first and then light sand the top. Water based stain will slightly raise the grain so sanding afterwards does too jobs in one. It also allows you to do a second coat to even the coverage if required.

  8. #18
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    Thanks for the advice fellow forumites. Yeah, I will probably go with a water based ink stain and gently gently with the sanding. I will post the pics as I go. Cheers

  9. #19
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    I use imgur on message boards. Drag and drop from your computer, select the resize option you want (large thumbnail is perfect for this forum) click the direct link and it copies automatically. Then paste it in you post put (img) before the link and (/img) after it, but use square brackets and presto, its in your post. If you quote this post you will see what I mean either side of the image link.



    Edit: Oops, didn't see this thread had a second page
    Last edited by Sonic Mountain; 22-08-2017 at 04:20 AM.

  10. #20
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    Guitar staining process.

    After a number of botched processes I have finished doing the top of my guitar. Should have started with the black then the colour, but didn't which gave me no end of grief. finally settled with the last image, doesn't look too bad but it won't win GOTM.

    cheers, Melkor.
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