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Thread: Neck shim question

  1. #1
    Member RalphH's Avatar
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    Neck shim question

    Hi there
    I need to do a full pocket shim on a 5 string bass neck due to the heel being convex and loosing about 1.7 mm in height in the process of making it flat. I understand a thin piece of maple is best practice for this, but in your opinion are there alternatives that offer the same sonic value? Metal perhaps? I'm finding it hard to obtain a blank piece of maple of the thickness and size (75 X 105 mm) I need for the 6 bolt neck pocket.

    Many thanks.

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music
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    I'm sure any wood veneer would be perfectly suitable, maple or not.
    'As long as there's, you know, sex and drugs, I can do without the rock and roll.'

  3. #3
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    The easiest way would be to get some maple (or another hardwood) veneer and use two sheets stuck together at an angle to each other like a ply. Almost all veneer is 0.8mm thick, so two sheets would be 1.6mm. It's easier to get smaller offcuts than big sheets, so I'd have a look on eBay for marquetry veneers.

    The alternative to using a shim is to add some slight angle to the heel so that the body end of the neck heel is thicker than the neck end, so the neck angles up when fitted and as a result, the saddles need to be set higher. So you need to be able to remove a very small amount of wood from the heel at a very shallow angle, probably only 2°-3°. You could probably work out the amount you need by simply angling the neck in the pocket with a straight edge on top of the neck, and see how high the straight edge is over the saddles.

    And the alternative to using that method is to use a small shim at the body end of the pocket to achieve the same neck angle, but I'm not sure how well this would work with a 6-bolt neck as you will lose a lot of neck to body contact area.

  4. #4
    Member RalphH's Avatar
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    Thanks Simon
    I will be a full pocket shim of equal thickness. The genuine SR5's have the neck on the same plane as the body, so I'm sticking with that as I'm trying for a replica. I'm finding it hard to get veneers without importing from Australia and ending up with way more than I need, and spending close to $50 including postage; hence my question about using metal. Would there be any sonic difference if I used a shim of brass for instance? Or aluminium?

  5. #5
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    I de-laminated some good quality marine ply to make a shim on my Jazzmaster.( used 1 ply) Once glued in and painted you would never know it was there.
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  6. #6
    Member RalphH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dedman View Post
    I de-laminated some good quality marine ply to make a shim on my Jazzmaster.( used 1 ply) Once glued in and painted you would never know it was there.
    I like that idea... did you need to do anything to the ply to assist in the delamination?

  7. #7
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    I pretty much cut it rough size at full thickness then used a coping saw to cut a slice off at the right thickness
    Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
    Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
    Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
    Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
    Build 15 PBG-2-
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  8. #8
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    Hi Ralph, have you thought about headstock veneer? The cheap stuff on eBay will come from China, but is less than $10 for 3, delivered. But if it's urgent that might not work.

  9. #9
    Member RalphH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robin View Post
    Hi Ralph, have you thought about headstock veneer? The cheap stuff on eBay will come from China, but is less than $10 for 3, delivered. But if it's urgent that might not work.
    Sounds like a plan. ebay? Don't have a URL by chance?

  10. #10
    Member Hobastard's Avatar
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    Back in the Eighties we used to Shim necks to angle them back slightly, we used layers of Paper which we glued together once we achieved the desired setup..... Paper is Wood after all.....
    I would never join a club that would have a member like me.....

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