1st timer building an ESB-4

[Fretworn]

First check that the neck pocket is flat. Whatever you do be subtle, you won't want to go too far.

[PeterSik]

i checked.. the neck pocket is flat.. found a possible other problem with the neck fitting though.. the scale length should be 34 inch which i can measure as 86,36 cm... meaning the 12th fret should be at 43,18 (which it is).. however when i measure from the nut to the bridge saddles i measure 86,5 to 88,5 depending on the saddle adjustment.. something tells me that's 0,14 cm too far is that normal or should i attempt a fix?

[Simon Barden]

Normal. There's a small dead length at the two ends of a string that don't actually vibrate like the rest of the string does. The thicker the string, the longer that dead length is. Which is why the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge is always going to be longer than the nut to the 12th fret. Double the nut to 12th fret distance determines the scale length, but because of the two non-vibrating bits of the string, the overall distance from nut to bridge saddle is always going to be longer in order for the bass/guitar to intonate properly. And because the strings are all different thicknesses, that's why the saddles all end up in different positions when the intonation is set.

It's the diameter of the core wire of a string that mainly determines the 'dead' length of a string, the wrappings mainly add to the mass per unit length. Which is why on a guitar, the wound D string saddle is normally further forward than an unwound G string saddle - its core wire is thinner than the G string.

[PeterSik]

thnx mate.. i'll go get crackin

[PeterSik]

yesterday i fiddled around with the neck and pocket till i had it where it should be.. ending in a late night glue session..



and today i made me a hanging system for the last of the clearcoat



it's startin to look like it's gettin near the finnish line

[PeterSik]

just put on wht i think may be the last coat of clear.. i think there's a thick enough layer on it now for a good sanding and buffing.. and imho it's looking quite awesome already... here's some pics in daylight..

[Simon Barden]

Looking good. It's very easy to over-sand on convex curves and edges, so go easy in those areas. You don't want to break through the finish and sand into the stained wood and leave some lighter marks. Keep checking the colour of the sanding dust and as long as it's clear, then you're OK. It it looks tinted at all, then stop.

[Andy40]

The saddles should sit at the 1/2 s ale mark too, the high e should be exactly the scale length the others can be compensated by moving the saddles

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[Simon Barden]

The saddles should sit at the 1/2 s ale mark too, the high e should be exactly the scale length the others can be compensated by moving the saddles

It's a 4-string bass Andy, so doesn't have a high E. All of the saddles are going to be a bit further away from the nut than 2x nut to 12th fret crown distance would indicate. And even on a guitar, the top E will sit very slightly back; the heavier the gauge of strings fitted, the further back it will be.

[Andy40]

Sorry Simon, you are right, heavier bass strings will put the saddles back further, I've been trying to catch up on so many threads I gots all mixeled up