Yeah but normally the screws come through the control plate and screw into the switch - it doesn't need to mount in the wood at all, you just need to add the two screw holes.
Yeah but normally the screws come through the control plate and screw into the switch - it doesn't need to mount in the wood at all, you just need to add the two screw holes.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"
I'd thin it a bit from inside, then as Sonic said, drill the mounting screw holes right through, use some nice stainless screws and washers and it will look OK.
Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
Build 15 PBG-2-
Build 14 FTD-1
Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
Build 12 DM-1S
Build 11 MKA-2 -
Build 10 Basic strat
Build 9 JM Kustom
Build 8 FV-1G
Build 7 ES-2V
Build 6- Community prototype
Build 5 LP-1LQ
Build 4 ES-5V
Build 3 JR-1
Build 2 GD-1
Build 1 TLA-1
Went down the routing route as my friend got a new trim router...had to test it out. So tele control plate on top now and modified scratchplate
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My scale length seems to be out a bit. Would this make much of a difference when playing high?
Not sure how I stuffed this up, was certain I checked before I finished.
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My scale length seems to be out a bit. Would this make much of a difference when playing high?
Not sure how I stuffed this up, was certain I checked before I finished.
Is it 24.75" scale as that translates into 628.65 mm or about 309.33 from 12th fret to high E bridge saddle?
25.5" scale is 647.7 mm which tends to suggest you may have a shorter G scale happening and therefore not too far off.
Still best to measure full scale length from inner side of nut just to be sure.
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# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
Some progress with the build. Put the neck on and intonation seems fine. I read on another diary yesterday people obsessing with measuring from inside the nut to 12th, then 12th to bridge instead of the full nut to high E bridge saddle. I now 2nd this advice! A lot of worry for nothing
The neck wasn’t the tightest fit but I was happy enough with alignment etc so screwed it in.
This was also the first time I tired a different wiring system, the tone pot is push pull and so I can change from double humbuckers to single coils, definitely worth it, I’m surprised how good they sound. It took well over 2 hours for me to do and I’m not great at soldering.
I put the bigsby on and some flats but it needs a good proper setup. It’s playable though and sounds great, dead happy with it.
I got the dingotone bone nut in but it still needs sanded down a little more. The tusq bridge saddles are on too, I haven’t played them in yet.
Never upgraded tuners before but the Grover’s seem to be great so far. Really smooth
I do have one question, where the hell do I put the string trees on this upside down headstock!? I assume somewhere around the B tuner back from the nut on the low E and A strings as they don’t have much of an angle with the nut? Another tree on the D and G string?
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That is a beaut FS. Really lovely work, well done!
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
This is cool as, what a great looking guitar. String trees might not be necessary? Where you have that one in the pic looks about right to me, but someone else may know better.
Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1
"What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"