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Thread: Tru Oil Finish

  1. #1

    Tru Oil Finish

    Hi Everyone,
    I'm using Tru Oil on my LP body. I'm coming up to the 25 coat mark, which will hopefully be the final coat for my build. I'm after a high gloss finish on the top, does anyone have any tips? (I know people say to wet sand using tru oil, but unfortunately I found that information a bit too late.( I've used 4 0 steel wool just about after every coat.))

    Cheers,
    U1F

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    I use super fine wet and dry paper, 1200, 1500 and 2000, then I go to course cutting compound then finally ordinary car polish. Some folk use micro mesh pads and work up through the grits with excellent results too.
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  3. #3
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey U1F, welcome to the forum. As Dedman says wet sand to 2000 grit and cutting compound and car polish. I use the micro mesh pads with some soapy water 1500 to 10000 grit then auto polish gives good results. Make sure the last coat has fully cured - couple of weeks if you can wait that long before you start the process
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  4. Liked by: OliSam

  5. #4
    Hey dedman and wokka, thanks for the swift reply. Are there any specific brands of cutting compound and car polish which you would recommend?

  6. #5
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    where are you from U1F ? Most good quality auto compounds will do the job. I use Meguiars polish are very good
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  7. #6
    Mentor robin's Avatar
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    Hi U1F, as Wokka said, most good quality auto cutting compounds and polishes will do the trick, but try and avoid ones that contain silicone if you can. There are huge debates on the internet about whether to use silicone based products on guitars. I don't know who's right but I believe that once it goes on it will be very hard to "touch up" any repairs.

    rob

  8. #7
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Yes, the ability to repair a finish is compromised by having silicone on it. There are solvents that will remove it, but they''ll probably take half your finish with it as well. It's easier to avoid them and still get a really nice finish.

  9. Liked by: OliSam

  10. #8
    Wokka, I'm from QLD. I'll definitely have a look at Meguiars.

    Robin and Simon, thanks for the advice. I'll keep my eyes peeled.

  11. #9
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by U1F View Post
    Hi Everyone,
    I'm using Tru Oil on my LP body. I'm coming up to the 25 coat mark, which will hopefully be the final coat for my build. I'm after a high gloss finish on the top, does anyone have any tips? (I know people say to wet sand using tru oil, but unfortunately I found that information a bit too late.( I've used 4 0 steel wool just about after every coat.))

    Cheers,
    U1F
    It's never too late to wet sand!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  12. #10
    Ahaha. You're right Franken - it's never too late.

    Just a question to anyone, (forgive my knowledge here) when wet sanding, am I to use the tru oil, mineral spirits or another form of lubrication?

    Cheers!

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