Daveyob first build diary TLA-1

[daveyob]

Hi Every one. I'm Dave.

I'm about to start my first guitar build so this is the first post in my build diary. I'm a complete novice but really looking forward to it. I'm doing a TLA-1.

The first thing I'm planning to do is a test of the neck. Adam has suggested that a I clamp it in place, finger tight set up the bridge, and test the two E strings for intonation. So I guess the first thing I'll need to know how to do is correctly position the bridge. I'm sure the info will be available for this, but if anyone has any tips in temporarily (i.e. pre sanding and body finishing) the bridge, I'd be grateful. I found this. Is this on the right track?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yK1UjaTPGRM

I guess the finger tight aspect is so as not to fully engage the screw holes in the body, and leave some wood to screw in to for later.

[JB RETRO]

Welcome Dave, Just clamp the neck in with some small bits of something so as not to damage the timber with the clamp. Don't screw anything just yet. You're just doing a mock build to check if everything is as it should be. The two E strings will show you if the neck is lining up square to the neck pocket etc. . If your using a stain to colour the body, give the guitar a wipe over with a damp cloth to show up any glue spots left by the factory as the stain won't take to those spots until you sand them back. Bridge position is the same distance from the nut to the 12th fret. 12th fret to bridge. I'm sure if I've got anything wrong or left stuff out someone will let you know. Good luck, Have fun

[wazkelly]

If you haven't already got one suggest buying a 1m metal ruler as that helps with checking measurements for the whole scale length.

On a Fender style that means 25.5" from inner side of nut to centre of high E string saddle. As the strings get thicker their saddles will usually need to be wound slightly further south (lenghtened) so best to look at the bridge to see where the saddles are currently positioned too.

When you have checked overall scale length from inner side of nut to bridge, as a check measurement look at how long to the crown of 12th fret and it should be exactly half the distance, or at least very close.

Cheers, Waz

[daveyob]

I'm striking my first blow this week in my build by visiting a friend with a vice to cut out my headstock. Then I guess it's on to sanding and finishing, but I haven't yet decided on, or ordered an stains or finishes. I'm keen on blue or greenish colour. I was interested to know if anyone has used the Dingotone Bondi Blue colour. The example picture on the site...

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...it-bondi-blue/

..looks quite speckled i.e. lots of contrast between dark and light blue colours. Some of the other sample picture colours look more uniform. Is it just the picture, or maybe that wood that looks quite contrasted? I'd prefer a more uniform stain if possible.

Also, I wanted to keep the neck natural so wondered if I should buy something like a colourless neck finishing kit as well.

Cheers everyone

[nitroburner1000]

I'm striking my first blow this week in my build by visiting a friend with a vice to cut out my headstock. Then I guess it's on to sanding and finishing, but I haven't yet decided on, or ordered an stains or finishes. I'm keen on blue or greenish colour. I was interested to know if anyone has used the Dingotone Bondi Blue colour. The example picture on the site...

https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...it-bondi-blue/

..looks quite speckled i.e. lots of contrast between dark and light blue colours. Some of the other sample picture colours look more uniform. Is it just the picture, or maybe that wood that looks quite contrasted? I'd prefer a more uniform stain if possible.

Also, I wanted to keep the neck natural so wondered if I should buy something like a colourless neck finishing kit as well.

Cheers everyone

Hi Davey just a few painting staining tips... if staining wipe over with a damp rag to check for glue marks as has already been mentioned but instead of water use metho as water if over applied will tend to raise the grain and can make the stain initially look patchy and sheery leaving you to do a lot of unnecessary sanding.
With the neck if you want a natural look get a crystal clear finish as a lot of brush on polyurathanes (wipe on poly included) tend to be yellow in colour so specify this when buying.The rattle cans tend to be ok.

[daveyob]

Thanks Nitroburner. Good tip!

[wazkelly]

Hi Davey, most Bondi Blue builds have been quite faded, almost like a pair of jeans, and suggest if you want to absorb some colour stop sanding after doing a thorough job with 120, no higher or your will regret it. If ordering DT suggest getting the colourless neck finish if you want the nude natural look without any hint of yellow or amber tinge.

Cheers, Waz

[daveyob]

Thanks Waz. I think I have paper starting at 120. If I take that approach, do you think I should just use that one Grit or start even coarser than that? Is it pretty common for people to only go to 120? The guide videos all say go to 400 but I'm happy to give this approach a go.

And I assume on the neck, I'd still go down to 400.

[FrankenWashie]

Davey, you'd just need to figure out how much work you have to do in terms of removing dings and sanding marks. If you've a lot of machine marks then you might want to drop down to 80 grit for the first few sanding passes. Then once you are happy you've got rid of them, go up to 100, then finish on 120. If the body is relatively clean then 120 should do you.

[wazkelly]

Hi Davey, being and Ash body they sand really nicely but as Frankie said sometimes you need to start with 80 to knock off the machine marks from when the body was cut form a solid blank, end grain and inner horn bends being the most obvious places that usually need a bit more work.

Handy tip - using 80 or 120 sand in the direction of the machine marks first and once they are gone then revert back to the direction of the grain. Be careful not to go toohard as you can sometimes introduce deep scratches that take more effort to get rid of.

A lot of folks sand up to 320 but from personal experience after staining 5 builds, the best result was after a solid workout on 120 and a very light dusting with 180 on the body and only 120 on the maple neck as they are usually pretty good straight out of the box. Necks are the hardest to stain as maple is a harder timber and susceptible to polishing up through too much sanding, resulting in stuff all stain penetration.

The best part stopping with a coarse grit is if you don't like what was just done it is easier to strip and start again. On the other hand if you are happy with outcome the smoothness comes with multiple layers of top coats and then the final polishing. This also helps to retain a lot more grain definition too.

Cheers, Waz