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Thread: Barnseys 2nd build ES2V

  1. #61
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OliSam View Post
    Hi AB
    I'm building one at present (very slowly) and will not be glueing mine for a long while.
    As Simon said I'll be trying many different ways before settling to one position. Then it will only be a very light application of glue.
    Ps. Loving your finish. I'm going for a feast Watson mahogany colour on the back with all natural face, neck and headstock.


    Sent from outta space using MartianTalk
    Thanks olisam good luck with yours. I brought some Diadora 10-42 phosphor bronze strings for the acoustic last night, i wonder how they would work on a guitar like this,

  2. #62
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Only the steel cores of the wound strings would respond to the magnets in the pickups, so the bass strings would be a lot quieter than with an electric set. You can of course try and adjust adjust the pole pieces on the pickups to get a balanced volume (never done this so don't know by how much the screw poles would have to stick up), but effectively you would be moving the pickup further away from the top three strings, so the overall output would be a lot quieter than if you used electric strings. Although you can use a clean boost or compressor pedal to raise the overall output, the tone from the top three strings would be a lot softer than before.

    However, the differences in tone would be interesting to hear. Maybe try it out with a cheap set of acoustic strings first?

  3. Liked by: OliSam

  4. #63
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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  5. #64
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    ooo! cool idea!
    Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
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    Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
    Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
    Build 15 PBG-2-
    Build 14 FTD-1
    Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
    Build 12 DM-1S
    Build 11 MKA-2 -
    Build 10 Basic strat
    Build 9 JM Kustom
    Build 8 FV-1G
    Build 7 ES-2V
    Build 6- Community prototype
    Build 5 LP-1LQ
    Build 4 ES-5V
    Build 3 JR-1
    Build 2 GD-1
    Build 1 TLA-1

  6. #65
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dedman View Post
    ooo! cool idea!
    Thanks dedman

  7. #66
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    1200 grit wet sand and another coat of oil

  8. #67
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    delicious!
    Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
    Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
    Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
    Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
    Build 15 PBG-2-
    Build 14 FTD-1
    Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
    Build 12 DM-1S
    Build 11 MKA-2 -
    Build 10 Basic strat
    Build 9 JM Kustom
    Build 8 FV-1G
    Build 7 ES-2V
    Build 6- Community prototype
    Build 5 LP-1LQ
    Build 4 ES-5V
    Build 3 JR-1
    Build 2 GD-1
    Build 1 TLA-1

  9. #68

  10. #69
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    That's 9 coats of t/o , not sure how many i should do.
    I was thinking i will thin the oil out and do 3 more really thin coats with light wet sand between

  11. #70
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It's always a compromise between trying to keep the coat thin (for best acoustic properties), providing long term protection for the top without the finish wearing through too easily, and how flat and shiny you want the finish to be.

    You've been sanding as you apply the coats, so you won't have a full 9 coats depth. Some people here have done over 30 TO coats - but maybe started out with rougher wood to try and make smooth.

    It's certainly looking very good in the photos. But only you know exactly how it looks and feels close up.

    I'd certainly thin the oil out for the final few coats. It should reduce the surface tension and help it to fill the valleys in the finish rather than tending to following the contours. Also, maybe do the top and back one side at a time and keep them flat whilst drying, so that gravity helps as much as possible in levelling the finish.

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