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Thread: Offset tele semi-scratch build

  1. #21
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    Progress to today

    Last week, I did some filling of the knots with sanding dust and superglue, as well as give the back of the neck pocket a bit of shape for better upper fret access (not that i get up there very often).

    As a side note for the back of the neck pocket. I was going to use a neck plate similar to the pro-strat neck plates (see image), but stupid me, forgot to stop the round-over of the back and it doesn't fit anymore.
    Luckily I have some ferrules to put in it's place.

    The A string hole on the back is not quite as well lined up as I remembered, but I can live with it. Also check out the mistake string through hole, (luckily only on top. Not sure I should bother filling it as it's covered by the bridge plate.
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    Ken.

  2. #22
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    looks good Ken. Plans sound good. As you say bridge plate will hide the 7th string though hole
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  3. #23
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    Great job mate, looks awesome

    As usual - some A hole always lets you down...

  4. Liked by: wazkelly

  5. #24
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stan View Post
    great job mate, looks awesome

    as usual - some a hole always lets you down...
    bahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  6. #25
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    haha comments from Stan could go toward a COTY award hahah
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  7. #26
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Hopefully that A hole will be covered up soon.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
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  8. #27
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    A bit more work done today

    Well I've done a little more work on the project today.

    Finally got a round to drilling the neck mounting holes and recesses for the ferrules.
    Not sure what I was worried about for these, went extremely well, even with just the hand drill in the drill guide.

    Might use the drill presses at work to drill the neck though. And need to visit the big green shed to get some new screws to attach the neck the ones I have are about 3mm too long. Wont poke through the finger board, but will definitely go into it, a little shorter is on the cards.

    Should I drip a little CA glue in the body holes to harden the wood a little? This is a Bunya pine body. Feels slightly stronger than the basswood bodies I have, but I'm never quite sure about pine.
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    Ken.

  9. #28
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    After I finished that, I whipped up a cross cut sled for my circular saw.
    (By whipped up, I mean spent a few hours getting it right. ;-) )

    Not quite as accurate as I wanted, but still far far more accurate than using it without the sled. I really should by a proper square one of these days.
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    Ken.

  10. #29
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    Some more progress.

    We'll other than filing a chip on the fretboard, it's just sanding and finishing left.

    Progress this weekend. Lined up and drilled the holes to attach the neck. Going to need a bit of shining laterally to get a tight fit, but have the strings lined up neatly with plenty of room on either side of the neck.

    Then time to attack the control cover and shelf.
    All in all, spent probably 2 hours making the template and testing, an all of 2 min routing the shelf in the body. Thought it turned out well.
    The cover it's self took a bit of time cut the rough shape with the coping saw, ten lots of sanding with 80grit to get the right shape, and a few moments going up to 400grit to smooth out the edges.

    First time cutting pickguard material. That dust goes everywhere and seems to get some static cling too. What a pain.

    Happy with the results so far.

    Does anyone have any suggestions for sanding the the edges around the tight curves of the horns?
    Or the edges in general. I find it hard to get a nice smooth finish on the end grain.
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    Ken.

  11. #30
    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
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    Yes, the dreaded static cling. Hate it.

    I usually have a selection of different sized dowels, broom handle pieces, and hard foam & rubber cylinders for the tighter curves. Some sticky sandpaper or double-sided tape to attach. Work with the grain, whatever crazy direction it follows, then move to in line with the edge/side once it is smooth enough and any marks have gone.
    Scott.

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