Wax on wax off

[Rabbitz]

This stuff?

http://diy.sikaretail.com.au/product...-wonder-wipes/

[FrankenWashie]

I reckon they are more likely referring to these:

https://www.ernieball.com/guitar-acc...nt-care#P04279

[Andy40]

Did a search and couldn't find what I was looking for.

How long should the final coat on the neck be left sit before waxing and should it be steel wool'd or fine sanded before wax.

The Tuff Dog neck has been sitting for about two weeks since I did the last final coat and I want to get on with the waxing so I can do the neck / fret fettling

Hi DK, I've sorted waited before replying as its DB's Corner.

Just trying to work out what you are saying here, so the DT final coat is on the headstock and the back of the neck and its been about two weeks since you did the last final coat and you are wondering if you can start the polishing process?

Secondly, the fretboard is naked and you want to apply DT wax to it?

Have I got the questions right?

[dave.king1]

Hi DK, I've sorted waited before replying as its DB's Corner.

Just trying to work out what you are saying here, so the DT final coat is on the headstock and the back of the neck and its been about two weeks since you did the last final coat and you are wondering if you can start the polishing process?

Secondly, the fretboard is naked and you want to apply DT wax to it?

Have I got the questions right?

Correct on all points, I masked up the fretboard slab and put a couple of coats of DT clear neck finish on it followed by a couple of coats of neck final coat.

The masking is now removed and being a maple fretboard it needs to be waxed and I seem to remember seeing in a post somewhere that the entire neck benefits from a wax and polish.

There is an almost imperceptible lip where the masking tape was and I'll flat that off before waxing.

So in a nutshell is 2 weeks or so enough drying time and do I hit it with 0000 steel wool or a bit of 2000 W&D, or indeed neither just wax & polish

[Andy40]

Hey DK,

The DT neck final coat, should be just that, a final coat. It shouldn't need wax over it (unless you wanted a wax finish). As a general rule, I would wait for the DT final neck coat to initially dry (should take about a week) - i would do a fingernail test on it, it should be hard enough to resist, then because I am pedantic, I would wait another 21 days for it to fully cure before final polishing.

I don't use steel wool to polish DT, I use micromesh polishing pads and have never looked back. If you don't know where to get them, just google "the sandpaper man". cost about $14 for the set and can be used many times - wetsanding.

After going up all the grits of the micromech pads, I then cut and polish with Meguiars and then use scratchX Meguiars for that ultimate shine.

After polishing I then lightly sand the "lip" created between the DT final neck coat and the bare fretboard edge with 1200, and then the micromesh pads as needed.

Thats when I start on the frets and fretboard. My process is as follows:-
1. Get rid of that plastic nut (if you want to use bone that is)
2. Check for any bow in the neck with a notched strightedge (adjust accordingly);
3. Check the radius of the fretboard (sand with my radiused block I made if needed)
4. Check that all my frets are sitting flush with the fret board (if not, put a sandbag under the neck and belt them into place with a nylon hammer)
5. double check any bow
6. use a fret rocker (or Stanley knife blades) to check the fret heights, bevel them flush and crown with a small triangle file (for fret crowing tool)
7. polish frets with steel wool and metal polish
THEN take off protective tape of fret board and Dingowax the fret board!!! yaaaaaaay

Sorry DB didn't meant o post before you. respect bro.

[dave.king1]

Hey DK,

The DT neck final coat, should be just that, a final coat. It shouldn't need wax over it (unless you wanted a wax finish). As a general rule, I would wait for the DT final neck coat to initially dry (should take about a week) - i would do a fingernail test on it, it should be hard enough to resist, then because I am pedantic, I would wait another 21 days for it to fully cure before final polishing.

I don't use steel wool to polish DT, I use micromesh polishing pads and have never looked back. If you don't know where to get them, just google "the sandpaper man". cost about $14 for the set and can be used many times - wetsanding.

After going up all the grits of the micromech pads, I then cut and polish with Meguiars and then use scratchX Meguiars for that ultimate shine.

After polishing I then lightly sand the "lip" created between the DT final neck coat and the bare fretboard edge with 1200, and then the micromesh pads as needed.

Thats when I start on the frets and fretboard. My process is as follows:-
1. Get rid of that plastic nut (if you want to use bone that is)
2. Check for any bow in the neck with a notched strightedge (adjust accordingly);
3. Check the radius of the fretboard (sand with my radiused block I made if needed)
4. Check that all my frets are sitting flush with the fret board (if not, put a sandbag under the neck and belt them into place with a nylon hammer)
5. double check any bow
6. use a fret rocker (or Stanley knife blades) to check the fret heights, bevel them flush and crown with a small triangle file (for fret crowing tool)
7. polish frets with steel wool and metal polish
THEN take off protective tape of fret board and Dingowax the fret board!!! yaaaaaaay

Sorry DB didn't meant o post before you. respect bro.

Thanks Andy, off to find micro mesh pads

[Andy40]

Yeah DK, Wokks put me onto them and they are just great. I do all my guitars with them and I've only ever had to buy two sets.

[dave.king1]

After finding nothing local I'm placing an order with The Sandpaper Man today.

I did the thumbnail test down on the heel of the neck and under a fair bit of pressure it left a small mark so waiting a week for delivery will be a good thing, enforced patience

[dave.king1]

Given that things are cooling down a bit what is the recommended method for softening Dingo Wax.

It's like concrete in the little tin which obviously can't get microwaved and I think sticking it in hot water might be a bit hit and miss.

[Andy40]

Hey DK,

My method is to dig out a small amount of Dingowax and ply it in my fingers until its soft then i apply a bit to a tough rag and work it into the fret board. Sometimes I wrap the rag around an eraser when i work it into the fretboard.
I keep plying the main bit of Dingowax in my fingers to keep it malleable or sometimes I put it under my cup of coffee to keep it warm.