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Thread: TV Yellow

  1. #1

    TV Yellow

    Hey guys,

    Partway through my first build (after purchasing the kit about 4 years ago!). Going for a relic'd LP-DC and I'm struggling with the colour. I want TV Yellow and the closest rattle can I could find was called jasmine yellow but it;s gone on too light/bright.

    Anyone have any advise on how I can tone the color down easily now? It's not far off but just too bright.

    Cheers,

    Bodders
    Current build - LP JR-1MDC Johnny Thunders replica project

  2. #2
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Bodders, I would do more research on the internet to track down the correct yellow rattle can. Will have to be the same type of paint. It will darken slightly after the clear coat but will still be too bright by the sounds.
    Can't believe we joined the forum same month and you racked up 7 posts and taken 4 years to build the kit ! haha
    Current Builds and status
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    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
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  4. #3
    Overlord of Music
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    TV yellow is traditionally transparent yellow layers built up over a white base coat. It's gonna be hard to get that colour in a single rattle can.
    'As long as there's, you know, sex and drugs, I can do without the rock and roll.'

  5. #4
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hey Bodders, I would do more research on the internet to track down the correct yellow rattle can. Will have to be the same type of paint. It will darken slightly after the clear coat but will still be too bright by the sounds.
    Can't believe we joined the forum same month and you racked up 7 posts and taken 4 years to build the kit ! haha
    That's a posting ratio of 1808:1, pretty impressive Wokka!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  6. #5
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    haha cheers for calculating that Franky !
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  7. #6
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    I hesitate to calculate your build:build ratio as that will be out of date probably by the end of the day :P
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  8. #7
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    haha you are on a roll Franky today !
    @ Bodders sorry about the thread jack !
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  9. #8
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    As Pabs said, It's a white base coat (though new copies tend to have a cream or light yellow base coat), then the mahogany is grain filled, then all that happened was clear coats got sprayed on top. Except Gibson's nitro clear coat in the 50s wasn't all that clear and had a yellowish tint to it to start with, and as it aged it got yellower. So originally, a lot of Jrs wouldn't have looked that yellow at all, but nearly white.

    The grain filling after the base coat is important for the look, as it's not a flat all-over colour.

    I'd read this article. you can see from the finished pictures that the grain is quite visible as a result. http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.u...yellow-finish/

  10. Liked by: bodders

  11. #9
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    As Pabs said, It's a white base coat (though new copies tend to have a cream or light yellow base coat), then the mahogany is grain filled, then all that happened was clear coats got sprayed on top. Except Gibson's nitro clear coat in the 50s wasn't all that clear and had a yellowish tint to it to start with, and as it aged it got yellower. So originally, a lot of Jrs wouldn't have looked that yellow at all, but nearly white.

    The grain filling after the base coat is important for the look, as it's not a flat all-over colour.

    I'd read this article. you can see from the finished pictures that the grain is quite visible as a result. http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.u...yellow-finish/
    That is a really thorough run down, very interesting stuff Simon, thanks for posting that link.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  12. #10
    Thanks for the responses guys, especially Simon for that very informative article. I've just got one issue with the "traditional" TV Yellow process - the kit I bought was one of the early ones and has a basswood body instead of mahogany :-) so the whole grain-filled thing won't work. I actually stained all the wood mahogany before spray painting as I want to relic it. To be honest, there probably won;t be an awful lot of yellow left on there by the time I've finished. I have to say that although it's basswood and the shape isn't really correct, it's a great kit and I've strung it up with no electrics yet and it plays great. Looking forward to getting it finished (in about 8 years at my current rate) and posting some pics ...
    Current build - LP JR-1MDC Johnny Thunders replica project

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