Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 15 of 15

Thread: Chapter 1. Tools You'll Need For Building Your Guitar

  1. #11
    Mentor Zandit75's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Penguin, Tasmania
    Posts
    1,326
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Not if you screw the neck on (have since seen Brendan's post about bridge positioning and clamps could apply in that instance) but if the neck holes are pre-drilled, you are better screwing the neck on.

    But I don't know on what kits they are pre-drilled and what kits they aren't (and it may very well change with time). I'm sure I've seen people attaching the necks with screws for setting up their Strat and Tele kits - but that's not to say they haven't gone and drilled the holes themselves first.
    My LP had a bolt on neck, and the holes were pre-drilled in the body, but not in the neck itself.
    Personally, if the neck was pre-drilled, I'd still want piece of mind to clamp the neck, run the strings through, and check the holes are aligned. We've already seen issues with holes drilled in the wrong place for bridge posts and cavities routed slightly out of whack.
    To drill the point home(so to speak!), I'm sure someone had to recently fill and re-drill the neck holes in the body because the neck plate didn't line up with the holes already there.
    Last edited by Zandit75; 03-05-2017 at 07:38 AM.
    Acoustics:
    1995 Maton EM725C - Solid 'A' Spruce Top, QLD Walnut B&S, AP5 Pickup
    2015 Ibanez AEL108MD-NT - Laminated Spruce top, Laminated Mahogany B&S, Fishman Sonicore Pickup


    Electrics:
    Pitbull LP-1S - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5745
    Carsen Superstrat Rebuild - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6284

    Builds in Progress:
    Silent Guitar Semi-Scratch Build - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6809

  2. #12
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Geelong, Vic
    Posts
    5,167
    Yep , never trust the holes - I got a left handed ES kit with the bridge drilled for a righty - fill and re drill....

  3. Liked by: Zandit75

  4. #13
    Overlord of Music Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    2,405
    All this stuff needs to go in the manual. If any pre-drilled holes don't line up with the neck plate, or the neck ends up skewed when screwed-on in comparison to an initial clamped arrangement, then what should the kit builder do? Contact PBG or fill the holes and re-drill (which is a mini-chapter in itself). Remember that this is for first (and maybe second time) builders, so they may not be confident in doing repairs.
    Build #1 ES-3 under construction http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6489
    Build #2 EX-1 (with alder body) Yet to start. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...093#post123093

  5. #14
    Thanks everyone.. all good stuff. Will try and incorporate all these insights. Now... to find the time.
    Cheers,

    Adam



    adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com

  6. #15
    Member Dikkybee007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Wyndham Vale
    Posts
    29
    Just found thread unfortunately and as you said apply the KISS rule so I would not get too informative as you will find if you specify a certain item / Brand and the person cant get it then they become confused and depending on what they want the guitar for depends on the level of equipment, so if they want it for a piece of furniture, display or reading light, then you want minimal but if you want it to be a musical instrument then there is mandatory items that makes the difference between the 2.

    As copied and modified :

    You can build one of these kits with a few basic tools

    file - For the average person a file is easier and I like a half round as it will do internal and external profiling
    Pit Bull Sandpaper (180 grit to 240 grit) - and block
    Steel wool - the person should be able to make their own choice as to grade
    Drill
    Drill bits, from 2mm and 3mm
    Clamp - I prefer an F clamp as they are quicker
    Pit Bull Wood glue (for set neck kits)
    Screw drivers, both phillips and flat head - and different sizes as a neck screw is way bigger than a tuner screw
    Long straightedge (600mm rule) - I use a 300mm rule as well for laying out for ease of use
    Soldering iron - I use an iron that produces 40w and 100w. Lower is for wires and higher for soldering to rear of pot
    Solder - they should have a basic understanding and I use lead free as my choice of solder
    Clean rags - I prefer paper towel as you don't cross contaminate yourself as it is a single use item and cheap
    Pencil
    Eye protection
    Wire cutters - I use needle nose pliers as they can also be used to tighten your jack nut
    Small allen keys for bridge - as stated you get it and the truss rod key in the kit
    Tuner

    I would also add:
    Ear and dust protection. I use a replaceable cartridge type for both dust and paint fumes
    Masking tape - for laying out and using as a clamp for gluing on nuts and trim
    Disposable gloves - Just keep stains and other undesirables off.
    Shifter / Adjustable Wrench - For doing up tuner nuts, one size fits all
    Coping saw - for use on a head that needs shaping

    To make it a musical instrument then you have to have a set of nut files as I have never found a kit that doesn't need adjusting.
    You also need a way of levelling the frets, I have my own, as all the kits I have put together need to be levelled.

    As for electrical items, it may make it easier but the person who is using them have to have the skills to use them safely.
    I have other extras that I use but that is because I can.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •