Starting my second build...The Reaper

[geddyfan]

So, I ordered a JRM-1DC kit for my next project. I think this kit will produce a great, classic-looking result, but there is one thing I don’t like about it that I hope to remedy…the neck heel to cavity transition. I don’t really care for how this comes together on the guitar. The square corners and how it looks (and I assume feels) ergonomically:



I’m hoping to contour this so the heel to body is seamless and smooth…so I’m wondering if anyone has suggestions.

Would you build it up by adding wood out to match the curve of the heel and then carve/contour it back…

Or would you carve the heel to meet the body wood and then shape it to create a seemless joint?

Do you think this would weaken the neck and joint too much to be advisable?

The back of the guitar will be a solid color, so I’m not worried about how adding material would look…but I’d rather not since this whole arrangement extends pretty far already.

I’m shooting for a similar result as is shown in this pic:



Any opinions, advice, examples, personal experience to share?

[wazkelly]

Adding wood is probably the safest option.
Have seen it done on this forum a while ago and cannot remember which build.
Someone might drop by with an example.

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[FrankenWashie]

So, I ordered a JRM-1DC kit for my next project. I think this kit will produce a great, classic-looking result, but there is one thing I don’t like about it that I hope to remedy…the neck heel to cavity transition. I don’t really care for how this comes together on the guitar. The square corners and how it looks (and I assume feels) ergonomically:



I’m hoping to contour this so the heel to body is seamless and smooth…so I’m wondering if anyone has suggestions.

Would you build it up by adding wood out to match the curve of the heel and then carve/contour it back…

Or would you carve the heel to meet the body wood and then shape it to create a seemless joint?

Do you think this would weaken the neck and joint too much to be advisable?

The back of the guitar will be a solid color, so I’m not worried about how adding material would look…but I’d rather not since this whole arrangement extends pretty far already.

I’m shooting for a similar result as is shown in this pic:



Any opinions, advice, examples, personal experience to share?

There's a few that have done this, I did it with my EXA, built the heel up so that there was no step and then also profiled it for better feel playing higher.
Adding material is probably preferable, if you have the means and the Mahogany. Given that the DC shape already has the neck out there a ways any removal might prove disastrous in the long run.

[geddyfan]

What about adding dowels from both directions? Joining the end of the neck to the body and through the bottom of the heel? Back side is going to be solid color, so it won't show. Glue is pretty amazing these days...

Just something I'm thinking about...would be a nice ergo feature if it doesn't compromise everything.

[FrankenWashie]

Its an idea, though id still be concerned as you've got a limited material around the rear of the heel once the neck is in there. Hard to tell from the photos but that section doesn't look much thicker than 3/8" or so. I guess its one of those things that you aren't going to know unless you actually make it happen.
You might also strike issues with the corners of the pocket, if you try and take your graduated heel shaping too far.
The dowel idea has some merit, but you will need to be absolutely spot on with your drilling and placement. It would be an interesting (and nervewracking) exercise.

[wazkelly]

On the Billy Sheehan signature Yamaha Bass there are additional neck screws that are countersunk and come in at a fairly flat angle and that concept might help.
Agree with Frankie that there is minimal timber both underneath and all around the neck pocket. I would be adding something, possibly Plasti Bond if they still make it as that stuff is really strong and can be easily shaped and sanded once allowed to fully cure. Have done this sort of thing when helping my Dad out with repairs to sailing boats when I was a kid (last century).

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

[geddyfan]

Thanks, guys...yeah, I don't have the kit in hand yet (should have it in a couple days), so I'm basing this on pictures. When it gets here and I check the fit and can actually see what I'm working with first hand, I may end up going in a different direction.

Would prefer that the joint was all wood and glue, but I also thought about using counter-sunk screws as Waz suggests. That would probably be easier than dowels, and I have the tools to do it with some precision. As FrankenWashie noted, the thickness of the wood underneath is a concern, so...

I saw a build on a different style guitar where the builder rerouted the pocket, shifting it back a bit (like an inch) to make for a stronger joint, and then adjusted everything back...but that would spoil the access to the high frets and the overall balance of the guitar (maybe?), not to mention make it a little...stumpy looking? (assuming an inch makes all that much difference -- my wife has been telling me for years, with a bit of slight disappointment in her voice that I try to ignore...that it does) Of course, one could do some carving to improve access, but now it's all getting a little crazy all for a feature few people would bother with.

But I'm "special."

The few examples of builds on this kit I could find were pretty traditional, but my plan overall is going to involve a fair amount of modification (like with my RC-4 build)...lots of carving...fun with figured maple...too many pickups...

[Andyxlh]

Hey if it's anything like your last one it will be great!

[Brendan]

Sorry - just have to leave this here.

[geddyfan]

You just had to do it...

So what does everyone think of cow bell inlays on the fret board?