Kick's first build LP-1MQ Red Widow

[Simon Barden]

I don't think you'd have to pay custom charges again for replacement goods, though you would probably have to contact the customs people to arrange some covering paperwork first. But if all the PBG kits turn out similar, then there's not a lot of point swapping.

[Kick]

I have sent Adam a mail and let's see what he thinks. I'll try to look into that customs thingy (paperwork is not my strongest point )

[Kick]

Ok, I have had a mail back from Adam and in short, it is quite normal so to say. Something about prize and quality... Anyway, I decided to keep the kit and go on with it.

I'm thinking I can use something to mask the cutline a bit and make it more invisible so any advice on some filler (or something els I can use) would be helpfull. It must be a filler that will take a stain though!

So, next step will be to get me some 320 and 400 grid sandingpaper and get started!

[wokkaboy]

Hey Kick, that cutline might not be that obvious when it's stained. So will this be stained red ?
Don't worry too much about a bit of slop in the neck pocket, that way you will be able to align the strings nicely when you glue the neck in.
Remember the quilted veneers are paper thin so only really light sanding ! Rest of the body and neck go hard on the sanding.
If the headstock has a quilted veneer go easy on that too !

[Simon Barden]

Removing any glue in that line is the first and main step. Any water-based grain filler will take a stain well, so look for one of those. Timbermate (as mainly used in Australia) is available in the UK but costs a ridiculous amount (£43/€49/A$68) for an 8oz pot! My localy available alternative is Rustins Grainfiller (at 1/10th of the Timbermate price). You only really need apply it over the centre line and any small pits in the top or grain splits around the edges near the binding to minimise the sanding on the top. However it does look like the top needs some light sanding. But I'd try and leave all the fine levelling to the finishing coats.

The closed grain of the maple doesn't need any general filling like some other woods do, so you are only using it to level the surface. Best to apply in small amounts just where needed and sand with fairly fine grit paper on a sanding block. Better to apply two or three thin layers then sand back lightly, than one thick layer which makes it a harder to see where you are with the sanding and then you end up over-sanding.

[Kick]

@Wokkaboy: Yes, it will be stained red with a slight black ringburst. I hope it is gonna look very nice

I'll take your advice Simon; first thing is to remove any glue. We have a well known woodworking shop in the Netherlands and I'll go and have a look on their website to see if I can get any waterbased grainfiller. Also goods tips on the layers and sanding the layers. Thanks!

[Simon Barden]

Applying a bit of grain filler and then scraping it flat with an old credit card or similar flexible plastic scraper is the easiest way to get a thin layer.

[Kick]

I certainly will use something like that instead of a metal blade.

I luckely found myself a new job and I'm very happy about that. Only downside is that I need to spend lots of hours to work during the start (following trainings and courses and so on).

[Simon Barden]

Good news about the job. Hope it's a nice company and you're happy there. At least the income allows you to buy more guitars (as well as eat), so push on through the training phase.

[Kick]

It's a wholesale company for the construction market so I have to learn a lot about all kinds of materials that constructors are using in building and renevation work.
I have knowledge of woodworking (already made some furniture) and I love DIY things. But now I have to learn about things as roofing, sanitary, all kind of plywood and MDF, electrical work, drainage and pouring concrete. So, I have a lot coming to me but I love it! After thirty years doing IT stuff this is a very warm welcome