Silent Guitar Scratch build ideas

[wazkelly]

Smells of money grab.

[Zandit75]

I really have to get my butt in gear with this build. I keep on having to rescue this thread from the 4th or 5th page!!

Spent a couple of hours on the head stock, but I've already stuffed up. I should have drilled the holes for the tuners before opening up the middle like I have. I didn't have this issue with the trial version I did, that went exactly to plan. I just had a brain fart and jumped a step without thinking. As suggested by a couple of friends of facebook(Thanks Pabs!) I'll be clamping some material to the inside before drilling very slowly with smaller drill bits before going to the full diameter needed. Hopefully I won't get any tearout on the inside.




I also spent some time on my imitation dremel, fitted to the genuine dremel router attachment while cleaning up the neck pocket. I have the bottom leveled nicely, but the sides are just a fraction too tight to accept the neck just yet. I need to take this very carefully, as I don't want to go too far.

[Chuck]

Steady as she goes Zandit, now's the time not to rush anything!

[robin]

Hey Zandit, shame about the tear out, that was the same problem I had. Hopefully you can hide it.

A neck that fits a bit tight? Unfortunately I had the opposite problem and had to glue in a couple of pieces of .6mm veneer to try and get a good contact.

As Chuck says, don't try and rush it now.

[Zandit75]

Hey Zandit, shame about the tear out, that was the same problem I had. Hopefully you can hide it.

A neck that fits a bit tight? Unfortunately I had the opposite problem and had to glue in a couple of pieces of .6mm veneer to try and get a good contact.

As Chuck says, don't try and rush it now.

Thanks Guys.
Robin, I don't have any tear out yet, I haven't drilled the holes yet for the tuners, but that's the risk I'm facing now. I was too angry with myself over the stupid mistake that I gave up on the build on Sunday afternoon.
The neck won't actually fit just yet, that's also a work in progress!

[FrankenWashie]

I also spent some time on my imitation dremel, fitted to the genuine dremel router attachment while cleaning up the neck pocket. I have the bottom leveled nicely, but the sides are just a fraction too tight to accept the neck just yet. I need to take this very carefully, as I don't want to go too far.

A flat, square, sturdy piece of hardwood with some self stick 60 or 80 grit wrapped around the corner may be useful here to tidy and do fine adjustment at the corners Z.

[Zandit75]

A flat, square, sturdy piece of hardwood with some self stick 60 or 80 grit wrapped around the corner may be useful here to tidy and do fine adjustment at the corners Z.

Thanks Bud, appreciate the tip. I doubt I'll get a chance to look at the build this weekend, got lots happening over the next couple of weeks!

[wazkelly]

Hi buddy, how about using a sacrificial cork sanding block cut down to fit the shape in the middle of your headstock so that when drilling the bit can go through into something to prevent tearing out?

I know it is really slow and painful but another way is to just run your power drill in reverse and be patient. Pushing it in reverse just makes things hotter and could end up burning or scorching the timber. This is how I enlarge any holes on bodies to accommodate thicker diameter upgraded pot shafts.

[Simon Barden]

Or just another bit of wood that you can use small clamps on either side of where the hole is going to provide something to drill into.

Or stop just as the tip of the drill is breaking through and use a small round file to enlarge the inside opening. A Brad point drill should also help to keep things clean.

[Zandit75]

Hi buddy, how about using a sacrificial cork sanding block cut down to fit the shape in the middle of your headstock so that when drilling the bit can go through into something to prevent tearing out?

I know it is really slow and painful but another way is to just run your power drill in reverse and be patient. Pushing it in reverse just makes things hotter and could end up burning or scorching the timber. This is how I enlarge any holes on bodies to accommodate thicker diameter upgraded pot shafts.

Good idea, but I wonder if the cork would be too soft to prevent break away?
I like the idea of using the drill bit in reverse, I used that technique on my Carsenstein headstock, with the exception of one hole, which surprisingly tore out!!

Or just another bit of wood that you can use small clamps on either side of where the hole is going to provide something to drill into.

Or stop just as the tip of the drill is breaking through and use a small round file to enlarge the inside opening. A Brad point drill should also help to keep things clean.

I'm thinking this will be the best solution. I have some mini quick action clamps that would be a good fit, and not get in the way of the drill.