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Thread: Phroz STA-1M, ST-M, TL-1

  1. #41
    Started my next project have not done much as weather here is to humid to spray have done my normal prep after this one im going to a les paul do a bit of staining and bursts


    colour


    just a couple of clear coats to wet to spray



    btw what program do you guys use to make headstock decal got paper and printer but i dont know how to make a custom decal ?
    Last edited by phrozin; 05-02-2017 at 12:31 PM.

  2. #42
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Hi phrozin, for some of my decal logos I used MS Paint and on the latest one I used MS Excel as I wanted to have a reversed out effect and that was easier to do in Excel. Limited by the standard fonts that come with whatever MS Office version you may be running.

    Plenty of downloadable fonts but was paranoid about importing a virus and didn't go there.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers, Waz
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
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  3. #43
    cheers waz

    i found this place online

    http://www5.flamingtext.com/All-Logos

    did a couple of them but paint doesnt have much to play with in win 10 until i figured out to paste from a file as for a computer wize im a good spray painter lol

  4. #44

  5. #45
    bit of a update had to repaint it as banged it on my wheelchair put a bit of a dent in it and been a bit busy with doctors and shit pain in the ass


    polished used just a straight yellow see if i can put it together with out buggering it up



    been playing with microsoft Paint on some headstock decals sort of come up with a few but harder than i thought it was

    this


    and this


    heres some i have sort of done not 100% sure which i finally go with i used the web site i posted and paint windows 10


  6. #46
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Oct 2015
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    Schinie Yellow!
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  7. #47
    Overlord of Music gavinturner's Avatar
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    That body has come up a treat! Great job. Very interested to see her assembled. What colour pickguard are you going with?

    cheers,
    Gav.
    --
    Build #01: BC-1
    Build #02: ST-1
    Build #03: JR-1DC
    Build #04: ES-2V
    Build #05: ESB-4 (GOTM July 2014)
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    Build #09: JR-1DC
    Build #0A: LPA-1
    Build #0B: STA-1 (GOTM April 2015)
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    Build #0D: LP-1M
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  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by gavinturner View Post
    That body has come up a treat! Great job. Very interested to see her assembled. What colour pickguard are you going with?

    cheers,
    Gav.
    Black gav with black hardware its still sitting on my desk waiting to harden i sort of sanded through the clear and had to reclear it been to buzy to do anything on it

  9. #49
    Hi Phrozin, sorry to go a bit off topic but your paint skills are brilliant.
    I've done a bit of small scale airbrushing (acrylics and some enamels) but nothing like a guitar body. What paint brand/type would you recommend for primer, colour and clear coats for painting a basswood body through an airbrush? Would it be better to prime, and maybe clear, straight from a rattle can for ease, if so what brand do you use (the photobucket photo you posted earlier is broken so I can;t see the detail unfortunately)
    Also, I normally spray skim milk consistency paint at ~15-20psi (very general rule as a starting point for any session) - are the 'starting points' for the paint you recommend any different?

  10. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by billb View Post
    Hi Phrozin, sorry to go a bit off topic but your paint skills are brilliant.
    I've done a bit of small scale airbrushing (acrylics and some enamels) but nothing like a guitar body. What paint brand/type would you recommend for primer, colour and clear coats for painting a basswood body through an airbrush? Would it be better to prime, and maybe clear, straight from a rattle can for ease, if so what brand do you use (the photobucket photo you posted earlier is broken so I can;t see the detail unfortunately)
    Also, I normally spray skim milk consistency paint at ~15-20psi (very general rule as a starting point for any session) - are the 'starting points' for the paint you recommend any different?
    Hi billb
    sorry I haven’t replied as been pretty busy and I don’t get on the computer much theses days, it doesn't matter what you use you can go from some varnish from your local hardware to dye and lacquers, 2k clears to tru oil, you can use a gun and compressor or if you don’t have that sort of commitment you can use a plain old rattle can, there is no real secret to what you use. It gets down to the amount of work you put in to it the more time you spend on making sure everything is as good as it can be before you apply finish, there are some really good looking guitars on here from guys who have not had any experience at all but still do an amazing job the only thing I do is I can probably do it easier than other guys I don’t really haft to think about it I just do it, thats just years and years of spraying.

    As for wood there all different some like basswood and maple are easier than say ash and mahogany which are grainy as buggery and requires a fair bit of grain filling before you can put on a finish, personally I don’t really like guitars done with tru-oil I am more lacquer nitro or 2k finishes I don’t always pull out my spray guns I could grab a rattle can depends on what I’m using and how lazy I’m feeling but before I start a new kit I have a plan and that’s what I stick to but I am not infallible I can stuff up just as good as anyone. I guess the price of a kit theses days and refinish products its not cheap and no one wants to bugger it up I don’t mind helping out with advice if someone gets in to trouble

    As for gun set up I use 25psi at the gun mixing I use recommended for what product I’m using (I use a mixing cup)I do more than not do a final flow coat for better off gun finish but not necessary and use a more diluted clear for the last 3 coats thinner depends on weather and what type met or solid I use a retarder if needed but none of that is hard and fast rule theses days i do a kit as a hobby gives me something to do as can no longer build a car and respray it wheelchair sort of makes that to hard, if I sat down a wrote every thing I may do id need 2 weeks lol Hope that answers it for you

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