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Thread: PRS - 1TS - First Build

  1. #1
    Member Slayer666's Avatar
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    PRS - 1TS - First Build

    Finally started my first build today.

    I ended up going for the Coolangatta Gold Dingotone stain. So far happy with the results after the first staining - did 3 or 4 coats.

    I was almost going to have a black layer sanded back under the gold to create a more textured look as suggested by wokka... is it too late for that type of thing now?

    Also I need to decide what colour to do the neck and headstock? Any suggestions for this stain?

    How do I remove some stain off the white binding around the body? Sand it back? Any ways as you all know lots of sanding done and I can't wait to progress this build!


    Cheers for the advice! \m/
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  2. #2
    Mentor Zandit75's Avatar
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    Unfortunately it's too late to do the black pop of the grain, unless you want to sand it all back completely and start again. What you'e done looks great, and if you're happy with it, don't second guess yourself! This build is all about you, and what you like. Don't go changing your mind based on other opinions.
    In regards to the binding, I found the best finish is to scrape it with a nice clean and sharp stanley knife blade. There are a number of videos on Youtube on how do do this, even one from a Gibson builder.
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  3. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Hey Slayer,

    Normally if you are going to do the "GrainPop" you'd start with that as a light stain or ink wash, then rub it back while its still damp/wet prior to applying your colours.

    With the binding, it usually pays to polish the binding before colour (Up to 1200-1500 grit) and masking it off. Stains have a wonderfull ability to find any flaws or cracks in the binding surface and adhering to that like Brown stuff to a blanket. You can sand back, or you can use a cabinet scraper or similar to scrap the bulk of the stain off, but if there are surface cracks in the binding, the stain will stay there.

    Looking at how your grain has come up though I'd say that unless you really wanted to get a "Tiger Stripe" effect, that yours is coming up pretty sweet as is man. Nice job!

    Edit: and while I was typing Zandit got there first!! So, what he said!
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  4. #4
    Member Slayer666's Avatar
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    Cheers! Is it normal for the body to feel a bit rough again after the first stain? I assume this is the wood swelling a bit? Second guessing everything haha

  5. #5
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slayer666 View Post
    Cheers! Is it normal for the body to feel a bit rough again after the first stain? I assume this is the wood swelling a bit? Second guessing everything haha
    Yeah, the timber will be thirsty and soak up plenty on the first coat and after 2nd or 3rd it would be a good idea to do a light sanding. Some use 0000 steel wool but I only had bad experiences using that stuff on DT and recommend at least 1200 grit and wet sanded between coats if things are feeling too textured. As the DT coats build up things tend to flatten and smooth out but if there is any lumpiness best to get it sorted early on.
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  6. #6
    Member Slayer666's Avatar
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    Cheers will hit up bunnings today

  7. #7
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Man, that flame looks awesome Slayer! I hadn't considered one of these kits but you are turning my head. (damn you.)

    If it were me, I wouldn't use steel wool over DT. its too risky if its not totally cured as little fragments of steel get stuck and then its a pain to get them out.

    If sanding DT at all, I use 1200 or 2000 grit and lightly sand in one direction. if you get any balling up of stain while sanding, its not cured, just wait a little longer.

    Good luck
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  8. #8
    Member Slayer666's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    Man, that flame looks awesome Slayer! I hadn't considered one of these kits but you are turning my head. (damn you.)

    If it were me, I wouldn't use steel wool over DT. its too risky if its not totally cured as little fragments of steel get stuck and then its a pain to get them out.

    If sanding DT at all, I use 1200 or 2000 grit and lightly sand in one direction. if you get any balling up of stain while sanding, its not cured, just wait a little longer.

    Good luck
    Thanks Andy40, I was mixed about the stain without a 'grain pop' look but now I have decided it is nice to see the great piece of wood as it is. I have now stained the neck and headstock... leaving it until the weekend to give it all a light sand with 1500 grit and then the intensifying coats will begin! Will post some more pics then... always wanted a PRS style guitar. Just hope the bloody thing plays well haha.

    A bit nervous about gluing the neck but one thing at a time...
    Last edited by Slayer666; 04-01-2017 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Typos

  9. #9
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hi Slayer that CG looks choice, it's on the safe side to not put a black coat on prior there will be less sanding and less risk of sanding through the thin caps. The clear coats will show up the flame.
    Neck gluing not that tough just clamp the neck and do a mock build with both E strings on to make sure the strings line up with the fingerboard

    Best of luck
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  10. #10
    Member Slayer666's Avatar
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    Thanks wokkaboy. Will add some intensifying coat/s this weekend and hopefully the finish coats the following. I did get some tru-oil just delivered but might hold off on that to see what sort of gloss I get from the DT finish.

    Can't wait to play this bad boy... I have some Seymour Duncan's I may put in... but will wire it all up with the stock pickups first me thinks. Also have some locking tuners.

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