Disaster FS-1 build restoration salvage attempt HELP

[FrankenWashie]

Nice idea! The tool you describe is called a 'slide hammer'

THANK YOU! That had been bugging the hell out of me since I read the description Freaky wrote. I could see the damn thing in my head, my father had one in his toolbox, I just couldn't assign a name to it.

[phrozin]

i havnt read the whole thread but that is salvageable the binding i would rub the binding with some thiners then get a sharp blade and scrap it it will come up if you want to do a nice job of it if you relic it, it will still look as a bad stain job. the guitar is not that bad you can fix it up just take a bit of elbow grease

Having said that i buggered my 1st one as well the first time but theres a lot of guys here who know what there doing and will help you through the repair

[Freakystyley]

The salvation attempt is also being resurrected.



It has been sanded and in some parts the veneer has been sanded through




Patched them all up and filled the bridge holes that won’t be needed





Tried to patch up where the wood cracked off at the neck pocket but it is a little messy, needs a lot more sanding and tidying but it’s a lot better than what it was.

As you can see I’m going the lazy route, sanding the whole thing down and spraying it solid including the binding, so plenty of sanding and spraying primer to see what parts need re sanding so the binding can’t be noticed.

I am going to go for sherwood green and gold hardware if everything works out.




What does everyone think? Anything I’ve done wrong any advice? I’m just going with the flow with this one as it nearly ended up as firewood!!



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[Andyxlh]

I like the colour idea. I like the solid colour, and green and gold go nicely. I'd scrape the binding back and keep it, you will have problems hiding the edge of the binding where it doesn't quite match the level of the timber sides. You can see this inthe photo of the neck joint. You can still do this by scraping back the primer you have put on with a scalpel blade. It might look a bit odd with a solid colour and no binding, even if the finish is good on the edges.

[Freakystyley]

Prime Time!

Couple of problem areas where the binding can still be seen so I reckon I will have to sand back on those spots and reprime


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[Freakystyley]

2 coats. More silvery than expected


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[Andyxlh]

That looks great, the silvery tone makes it loads more interesting to look at than a solid green

[Freakystyley]

The lacquer has been put on this and cured for a month or so. Anyone any tips on sanding back before polishing? I seem to always sand through the paint at the edge. This was with 2000 grit.


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[Dedman]

When painting I usually do the edges, then the body, then the edges again on each coat, it assures plenty of "elbow" room for sanding. other than that, all I can suggest is slow cautious sanding on the edges.

[Andyxlh]

Go very slowly with the sanding, 2000 grit, also sand wet if you can and keep wiping dry to check when you have the surface smooth. you only need dampness not pots of water, and you can manage the water on the surface so it doesn't get where you don't want it to be.
Don't sand the edges at all, they don't need it, if you are patient you won't need to as you will get close.
Keep the sandpaper clean, make sure you don't have any grit between the paper and the surface. After you have the surface matte and smooth, then use cutting compound to bring up a shine.
You can hear surfaces scraping when you have something under the sanding surfaces if you listen carefully
Again, make sure the cloth is super clean with no sandpaper bits in it or you will end up with swirls