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Thread: Sanding

  1. #1

    Sanding

    Hi, being a total novice at this, and got the jist of sanding, sanding and more sanding. Not sure if there's an answer to this - but how do you know when you've done enough ! It looks nice and smooth with no scratches etc, but is it ready for the stain. Bit nervous of putting the first coat on in case I haven't done enough sanding.

  2. #2
    Member
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    As DB says, sand and sand then when you think your done sand more. Then get your partner to sand, then you do it again.

    Jokes aside I'II leave this to the others on here with more experience, you will get the answers you seek preety soon
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  3. #3
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Hey Alan, you may want to do is give it a quick wipe down with either a water dampened cloth, or a cloth dampened with Gum turpentine.
    This should show up any remaining glue spots that you won't see until you start staining.
    It may also raise some of the softer fibres (Depending on the body wood) which you can then knock back with some 240 or 320 grit.

    You wouldn't want to go much further than 320 (or some use 400) grit paper else you run the risk of the stain not keying in due to the smoothness you've created.
    If you don't see any shiny glue spots, and if you can't feel any "Fuzz" after the wipe down, or there is no evidence of machine marks then you should be good to go.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  4. #4
    Thanks for that, does sound like I've bit to go yet though

  5. #5
    Moderator dingobass's Avatar
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    Also when sanding the sides, sand in the direction of the growth rings.
    This will give you a much nicer finish.

    There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....

  6. #6
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dingobass View Post
    Also when sanding the sides, sand in the direction of the growth rings.
    This will give you a much nicer finish.
    Good advice from DB but sometimes you have to sand in the direction of the machine cuts first to knock them down (probably using 80, 120 & 180 grit)and then switch to direction of the grain from 180 through 240 and up to 320. This is even more apparent on the edges, any tight curves, and on the shoulders of the neck pocket too.
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  7. #7
    Thanks Guys - back to the sanding ! !

  8. #8
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    The wet rag trick will show you how much to go - key part is once you've had enough sanding for the day wipe it down and let it dry (could take anything from a couple of minutes to half an hour) and as Franken says above, any loose fibres will stand up and be easier to knock off the next sand.

  9. #9
    Thanks, the wet rag trick really works ! Amazing what you learn once you get started.

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