NON-PBG Build 2 - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

[Alkay]

I can see you had some problems with that build! Getting masking tape to stick onto concave curves is never easy. Even i have problems. I find it best not to try and do a concave curve with a single piece of tape, but use two or more pieces, so that there's less tendency tor the tape to lift.

Have you still got problems with the electrics on that first guitar?

hahaha yes it was a messy first build. I have been doing what you said with masking but also depending on the edge I put a small snip half way across the tape in even segments which helps. It depends on the curves but I'm better at it now. Just another skill I had to learn.

Yes the electrics are dead. It's interstate at a mates house who was going to try and fix it. I'm getting it back soon and I'm sure I can fix it when I get it back. It was my first build. A good one to hang up on the wall as a reminder hahaha.

[Simon Barden]

Always best to build most of your wiring harness out of the guitar on a piece of cardboard. I use a piece of paper to mark out the potentiometer holes on the top of the guitar, transfer that to a piece of cardboard and poke holes through. Then fit the pots through from the underside (otherwise it won't work as well). Using coloured pens, you can draw the circuit/wiring on the cardboard, to make it easier to not get your wires crossed or connected to the wrong lug on a potentiometer.

Then you can work on fitting the wiring between pots (and depending on the style of guitar, sometimes the selector switch and output jack as well), when you have a lot of space to do so, and not when they are in the bottom of the control cavity. You can then cut wires to the correct length, without having excess wire everywhere - never good for tidiness nor noise pickup.

With everything out of the guitar, you can more easily test the connections with a multimeter to ensure they are made well, so that if there are any problems later, you should be able to discount the wiring of the bits you've already tested.

[Alkay]

Always best to build most of your wiring harness out of the guitar on a piece of cardboard. I use a piece of paper to mark out the potentiometer holes on the top of the guitar, transfer that to a piece of cardboard and poke holes through. Then fit the pots through from the underside (otherwise it won't work as well). Using coloured pens, you can draw the circuit/wiring on the cardboard, to make it easier to not get your wires crossed or connected to the wrong lug on a potentiometer.

Then you can work on fitting the wiring between pots (and depending on the style of guitar, sometimes the selector switch and output jack as well), when you have a lot of space to do so, and not when they are in the bottom of the control cavity. You can then cut wires to the correct length, without having excess wire everywhere - never good for tidiness nor noise pickup.

With everything out of the guitar, you can more easily test the connections with a multimeter to ensure they are made well, so that if there are any problems later, you should be able to discount the wiring of the bits you've already tested.

Hi Simon, Thanks for that. I did use a cardboard template on this current build but that first one I didn't. Good idea marking the pot holes on a piece of paper and then transferring that onto the cardboard template so they are accurately marked. I'll keep that in mind on future builds.
I now have a multimeter too which has been helpful.

Thank you as well for the spray finishing advice too. Might be something to consider soon.

[Alkay]

Hi everyone,

Just an update:

First coat of poly on sides and back...wow. I haven't even started yet. This stuff rocks. I made my own wipe on poly using turps to thin it down. Cheers Nitro

Going to wait for this to dry and I'll do the face as planned. Clear coat poly on the spalt face of the body. Should look really nice. Absolutely no way I could colour that thin veneer and I really like the look of it.

I'll post some photo's after a few more coats where the camera will pick it up.

I'm going to be hitting it with probably 1000 grit wet and dry and put a coat/s on in between 1500 very thin but I'll see how I go. I can already see I won't need many coats so I'll just see what it needs.

Once I let it cure for a few days I'll work my way up using the micro mesh to 12000 then cut and polish.

Hopefully have a good result at the end of this.

[Alkay]

Ok so here is an update after the 2nd clear coat.

[Alkay]

Another update after the first clear coat on the spalt:

[CascadiaGuitarGeek]

Your spalted LP is looking pretty great so far. I'm hoping my upcoming spalted FV will look that good when I get to it in a few months. It's great to see how everybody is handling the finishing on these tops. Keep up the good work.

[Alkay]

Your spalted LP is looking pretty great so far. I'm hoping my upcoming spalted FV will look that good when I get to it in a few months. It's great to see how everybody is handling the finishing on these tops. Keep up the good work.

Thanks CascadiaGuitarGeek, I did wan't to colour stain it but was a bit worried because the spalted maple is paper thin. If I made a mistake it would be hard to undo so I decided to stay simple and keep it clear with the poly which highlights the natural grain.

The one Zandit75 did inspired me to do the same because that one looks amazing. Check it out if you haven't seen it yet.

Cheers,
Alkay.

[Zandit75]

Thanks CascadiaGuitarGeek, I did wan't to colour stain it but was a bit worried because the spalted maple is paper thin. If I made a mistake it would be hard to undo so I decided to stay simple and keep it clear with the poly which highlights the natural grain.

The one Zandit75 did inspired me to do the same because that one looks amazing. Check it out if you haven't seen it yet.

Cheers,
Alkay.

It's not very often I get called inspirational!
Thanks bud!

[wazkelly]

Hi Alkay.

Looking very good indeed.