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Thread: DrNomis_44's Gold Standard STA-1M Build.

  1. #1451
    Quote Originally Posted by DrNomis_44 View Post
    You know, it could have been worse, it could have been a platinum one...hahahaha.
    Could have been shameful bronze.

    cheers, Mark.

  2. #1452
    Overlord of Music DrNomis_44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Darwin,NT Australia

    I managed to spend quite some time last night working on getting the new bridge installed on my Gold Strat and have got it all finished and working as it should, I'll post a pic of the bridge installed in the guitar soon for you guys, after some time trying to get the high B and E strings to intonate properly, I realized that I needed to install a string-tree in order to create a better break-angle over the nut, so I looked amongst my bits and pieces and managed to find a black plastic string tree with rollers on it, then I drilled a small mounting hole in the headstock and screwed the string-tree into place, not only did it fix the intonation problems it also made the high B and E strings sound better.

    Once the guitar was all set up and tuned to pitch I gave the new trem system a test run, I had set it up so that it is floating to allow pull-ups and dive-bombs, and one thing I noticed is that it is very sensitive to how much you move the trem arm, you don't need to move it a lot to get a fair bit out of it, I'm putting that down to the fact that the trem arm is held pretty securely in it's socket, once the little tension grub-screw is adjusted, there's very little play, or slop, in the trem arm like you get with a screw-in arm, yet you can still easily move the arm sideways so that it is out of the way of your picking hand, it does take a bit of time to get the individual string height and intonation adjusted correctly but once it's set you can lock it all in place by tightening some grub-screws with the supplied Allen keys, adjusting the intonation is much the same like on a conventional Strat bridge.

    Here's a pic of the new bridge installed on the Gold Strat:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's a pic to show how I've set the bridge to float:

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    And here's a pic of the string-tree I needed to install for the high B and E strings:

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    Update 2:

    Here's a little tip for those who are building, or have built Strat style kits and are having trouble keeping the guitar in tune when the bridge is set to float as per how I've set the bridge on my Gold Strat, if the low E and A strings seem hard to keep in tune it's probably due to friction in the nut slot caused by the break-angle of the string when it goes over the nut being a bit excessive or too steep, this causes the string to pull down into the nut slot under string-tension which in turn increases friction, to remedy this consider winding the string "Up" the tuner shaft rather than "Down", I know it sounds counter-intuitive but I found that doing this to the low E and A strings on my Gold Strat improved the tuning stability of these two strings, and they still sustained properly without buzzing like a sitar.

    Next, once you have the offending strings winding up the tuner rather than down, tune each string on the guitar up to pitch, then give the trem arm a good workout, then tune each string back up to pitch, repeat until the strings no longer go horribly out of tune when you give the arm a good workout, they may all go slightly randomly out of tune but that's okay, as long as they aren't going horribly out of tune, I've got it to the stage where I can do some pretty aggressive trem-abuse (almost what you can do on a Floyd Rose equipped guitar) and the strings only go very slightly out of tune (less than about 5 cents +/-), so light Surf Chord shimmers should be fine to do now.

    Here's a pic showing what the strings should look like when wound up the tuner shaft:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Notice how the break-angle for the low E and A strings looks a lot like the high B and E strings?, this is what you should aim for in order to remedy tuning stability issues with your Strat-Style trem when it's set to float to allow pull-ups and dive-bombs, this worked for me after trying graphite and lubricants in the string-slots failed, I guess if I combined winding the strings up with nut-slot lubricants it'll produce even better results, but I haven't tried it yet, might do later on though.

    Note that this is assuming that the tuning-stability issues you're having isn't being caused by the string binding in the nut-slot due to the slot not being wide enough to allow the string to move freely through it.
    Last edited by DrNomis_44; 22-06-2017 at 04:31 PM.

  3. #1453
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    That bridge looks very floaty!!!!
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed and upgraded
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed | Co-Winner-May 2016 GOTM | Runner up GOTY 2016
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed | Runner up Feb 2017 GOTM
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed | Co-Winner - July 2017 GOTM
    Current Build #7 - JBA-4
    Current Build #8 - Semi-scratch build Tele

  4. #1454
    Overlord of Music DrNomis_44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Darwin,NT Australia
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy40 View Post
    That bridge looks very floaty!!!!

    Believe it or not, that's actually how Leo Fender originally intended the trems on his Stratocasters to be set up, my Gold Strat definitely has that Stratocaster sound to it, might see if I can record a new demo of the Gold Strat tonight so you can hear the new trem in action, I've got a great fender amp plugin that I can use to do the recording, so stay tuned.

  5. #1455
    Overlord of Music FrankenWashie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Glebe, NSW
    Floaty McBridge Face? This might be one of those things that we've all done a certain way because that's how everyone does it, but everyone does it wrong.
    It does look a little off, but if it keep it in tune who gives!? Great little mini set up tutorial Doc.
    Project list:

    #1: 16/001: PBG EXA-1. Finish Coat Application/Electrickery
    #2: FrankenWashie Resurrection. Electrickery and setup.
    #3: 16/002: PBG SV-1. 2nd Stage Colour.
    #4: 16/003: The Cliché Black LP. First stage colour.
    #5: 16/004: TLA-TH-TBA. Final and neck coating.
    #6: 17/001: The IB-Freebie. Fretting, inlay play and Body Final Coat
    #7: FrankenLab Experiment 2. The Silent Build.
    #X: 16/00Never.Ever.: Sea Foam Green KH1/MK2 + Disco Lights, Hipshot Bridge.

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