DB's binding jig

[Marcel]

Looking to do my first binding job on a non PBG Denim Tele project and am 3/4 the way through building a routing jig very similar to yours DB... However there is one big question that is still outstanding for me, and that be - Which glue do I use to secure the binding to my build?

I have TiteBond for set neck jobs, Titebond III for outdoor jobs, PVA for general wood working jobs, and superglue for all manner of other jobs, and I thought Weldbond made by Frank T Ross & sons in Canada might be a reasonable choice for doing binding. Any other and/or better recommendations there DB?

[Brendan]

Depending on the individual - some will go straight acetone, but others go with Tarzan's Grip - not sure whether that is available outside Australia though.

[Marcel]

Thanks Brendan.

I've used Acetone for a lot of things, particularly in the cleaning department but never as an outright glue onto wood.

'Welding' a join in the binding with Acetone makes sense as many plastics will melt when in contact with Acetone. Not sure if I want much of that effect when putting on the 'Mother of Pearl' (as SWAMBO calls it) binding to my Tele partscaster build. I'll need to do some trials first.

[Maddogm]

Depending on the individual - some will go straight acetone

I've seen Acetone mentioned a couple of times in relation to gluing binding. Acetone is a solvent rather than a glue, I can understand it for sticking binding to itself but I wouldn't have thought it would stick binding to wood. Or does it soften the binding enough that it sticks to the wood itself?

[JB RETRO]

I've seen Acetone mentioned a couple of times in relation to gluing binding. Acetone is a solvent rather than a glue, I can understand it for sticking binding to itself but I wouldn't have thought it would stick binding to wood. Or does it soften the binding enough that it sticks to the wood itself?

Great question, I'd like to know that as well

[Brendan]

Just going on this guy's binding effort - he uses acetone...

[Marcel]

Nice binding result...

Got the picture fine with the Acetone, Sadly it probably will not work on a denim covered body as sanding the denim to the same extent as in the video might cause an issue...

[Marcel]

Took a leaf out of DB's book and built a jig to do the routing for binding. Test cuts worked well, just need a 1/4 inch shaft rebate bit that gives me the correct cut depth and I'll be able to proceed with my partscaster Alder Denim Tele build...

The rope is only for stability. On its own there is some wobble in the motor head that I didn't want, so putting a little tension on the metal frame fixes that. Test cut on the pine block looks quite good by my half blind eyes...

[wokkaboy]

cool idea Marcel, is there a way to make the router to bracket connection more sturdy so the router has little movement ? I assume you move the body underneath and the pattern bit follows the edge of the body?

[Marcel]

Not really Wokka. The router comes with a L shape bracket that is solid enough to be used as a guide but is just a little light to hold the router on its own. A more solid L bracket would be better. My little arrangement with the rope keeps the L bracket under light tension and holds the router quite steady.

Yes, the job moves under the router and follows the pattern or rebate bit bearing. The base board is standard plastic coated builder concrete form ply. The upright strut is a Uni-strut piece bolted to some pine 45x90 under the form ply.