ESB-4SC First Build

[gavinturner]

Looking really great Dekka! Can't wait to see this bad boy finished. For the TO application, give it a nice deep soak coat to begin with. The wood is really thirsty at the beginning and will drink it up. After that apply as thin as you can, with the grain, and steel wool after every coat or two. After about the tenth coat, start light wet sanding with decreasing grit size every 3-5 coats starting with the grit lower than the one you finished sanding with (for me it's usually 600). Each time you wet sand, decrease the grit size. Don't wet sand too much (it's just a light wet sand) - you dont want to sand through the last coat. TO doesn't meld layers like lacquer does, so you can't wet sand in the traditional way. As the layers and wet sanding continues you should see a shine slowly develop. At about 1200 grit it should start to look awesome. If you are having trouble laying down the last layers without adding ridges from the rag, you can thin the TO a little with mineral turps (I thin about 50:50). This is my method anyway, many people will have their own opinions and tricks on TO application. Hope this is some help.

cheers,
Gav.

[Arzi]

Hi

Gav gave great instructions here so nothing to add. Just as he said - be careful when you sand the oil. I wet sanded with TO every 10 coats and used 800 and 1200 grit while doing it. Applied plenty of it and in about 5 minutes when it started to get sticky - wiped away the excess. After second wet sanding I applied about five more coats and after one week of curing did the final wet sanding with soap water and 2000 grit.

I applied 3-5 coats a day. It's a slow process and takes patience but rewards in the end. Just remember it's not laquer and doesn't protect the surface the same way. It polishes well in the end with polishing compounds using just your hands. If you want to use power tools on polishing - use very low rpm or otherwise you will burn through the surface very quickly.

The initial coats 2-3 really rubbed in to the wood provide a good starting point for building up the layers. Have fun!

[Dekka28]

Wow thank you Gavin for the compliment and thank you for taking the time to share your technique I really appreciate it.

Thank you Arzi for sharing all your guidance as well.

[Dekka28]

I have finished the staining and took the masking tape out.

Note to self: buy a better brand of masking tape next time. The masking tape left a huge amount of glue on the binding and it really was a b**** to clean up. I also realised a few touch up are required here and there on the back and front but nothing much. I am waiting for the TO to arrive before I can start the clear coat.

On to the next step, I am looking forward to put 75 coats of TO on.

Quick question for the experts. Should I do the front or back first put all the coats down then move to the next part or do you guys usually do Front, Back and side at the same time?

I am possibly going to start the wiring as well this week.

Quick photo for you guys. I am liking the look so far.

[Arzi]

Hi Dekka

Looking great! I remember cleaning my RC binding about 4 hours after the staining and I share your pain. Its good to coat either the top or back/sides and same with the neck at the same time. This way you get to do the sqnding between layers the same time on both and see the progress. 75 coats is alot and I think that after 25_30 you see that you have achieved about enough for a high gloss if that is what youre after. I'm now at about 10 on mine and about to do first TO sanding hopefully tonight or tomorrow. I've been less generous on my coats this time so gonna start with TO and 1000 grit just to be sure I don't go thru the coat. 75 coats is gonna take about 20 days and the start over again for the other side - I bow to you if you have the patience for it. I would not right now anyways.

Good luck!

[wokkaboy]

Hey Dekka looking great. If you can shape a neck hanger it should be easy to tru oil the whole body at once. I get a long piece of scrap wood and shape the end like the neck pup cavity and knock a small wedge shape piece of wood at the back and front.
75 coats of TO is an over kill. You just need enough so when you wet sand it flat you don't sand through.
10 coats should be more than enough.
These days I do 4 or 5 good coats and 2 thinned coats is usually enough.
Good luck

[Dekka28]

Thanks Arzi and Wokka, It's getting there. I am not intending to do that many but if I have to break it down back, side and front. I am probably looking at 15 - to 20 coats per face. What do you guys recommend for the neck 5 coats, 10?

[Arzi]

Hi

I'm now about 10 coats on the neck and that will be enough for it. The surface is so much smoother compared to the body. After I sand the body soon then I'll decide how much it needs more. Propably will do the 20 total on mine.

[Dekka28]

Cool thanks Arzi.

For the neck did you follow the same procedure. 3 coats, wet sand, 3 more coats wet sand with finer grit as well?

[Arzi]

No

I sanded the neck to 600 grit before TO and the surface is so smooth even after 10 coats that I think I'll get away with just one To sanding with 1000 or 1200 grit followed with light 2000 and soap water - then polishing compound and wax. Might give it a couple of coats before the 2000. Have to figure out how to operate the maple fretboard - maybe just polishing compond will be enough.

With the body I also do 1-2 TO sandings between 10 coats and then couple of coats - let it dry for a week and then final 2000 grit and soap water + polishing. Body needs more work.