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Thread: ESB-4SC First Build

  1. #11
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hi Dekka kit looks great. The gap in the neck heel/pocket looks like the pocket could be a bit crooked as well. I'd sand the glue off the heel and try and sand the neck pocket a little using a sanding block.
    Glue and finish should fill the gap so I wouldn't worry too much.
    The hole in the bridge pup cavity doesn't look like a problem it will be hidden. As long as there's enough timber to screw the 4 screws in the pup ring.
    Good luck with the build and glad it arrived !
    Current Builds and status
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  2. #12
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    This is first build thread for one of these that I can remember. Looking forward to this.
    Current:
    New/Replacement Scratch Lapsteel?

    Completed:
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    SG

  3. #13
    Thanks Fretworn. I just hope I am not going to mess it up. I am preparing a schedule of the things I need to do from the sanding to, finish and wiring.

    Any of you guy have recommendations in terms of sanding a hollow body? I need the guidance

  4. #14
    So I am about to start sanding the body going through the 180, 220 and 240 grit process

    I think it was moose that said:

    The use of grain/pore filler depends on the wood, basswood and maple don't need this step,
    I am correct in assuming that this step should be skipped for my hollow body?

    I am a little unsure as to how much I should sand the body considering it is a hollow basswood body with a maple cap

    What do you guys think?

  5. #15
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    I think it was DB who said it!

    You should not need to grain fill basswood or the maple top.

  6. #16
    So a tiny bit of progress. I think I might be paranoid but I really want to take this low.

    Today I sanded the glue off the heel and gave the body and the neck a quick sand with some 180 grit I had lying around. The neck heel looks a lot better but I am not worried that as wokkaboy hinted the pocket might be a little off as there is a gap between the body and the fret board on the high side of the neck when I set the neck. I will post picture tomorrow.

    The other things that worries me is over sanding as I have not seen a lot of build diaries on hollow body I am wondering whether a regimen of 180, 240 and 320 is too much or not.

  7. #17
    So I am waiting for various deliveries to start working on the guitar. I have cleaned up some glue on the heel of the neck but the more I look at this area the more I think something is not quite right.

    When the neck is inserted flush there is a small gap on the left hand side at the bottom of the heel.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    where I am a little bit unsure is the gap under the fret board and the body where it seems that part of the neck is not as straight as it should be. The picture, I now realise, is not as clear as it should but there is definitely a small gap.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    and of much less concern is the small gap between the neck and the body on the high side of the guitar. I would assume that the glue and the finish might take care of this.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Obviously this is not as pronounced as on gavin's build but I am not sure whether I should consider sanding the neck or the pocket a little bit. Is sanding a good idea and could eventually impact the neck angle or am I being picky?

  8. #18
    Is there a way to check whether the frets have been set properly. I have not measured anything yet but it looks like fret 10 and 11 might be a little off.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is there a way to check?

  9. #19
    Member Island_Moose's Avatar
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    Use the fret distance calculator on this page. You'll need to know your scale length (24 3/4"?). It looks ok in the photo, the inlays sometime play a trick with the eye.

    If you can confirm 24.75" scale, then the 10th fret should be 10.86 inches from the nut, or 10 14/16". I believe that's to the centre of the fret wire, and from the inside face of the nut.

    http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/f...mozTocId148447
    Last edited by Island_Moose; 22-09-2015 at 07:25 AM.
    Island_Moose
    aka John

    Completed Builds:

    FS-1G "Starcaster" Tribute - G.O.T.M October 2015


    Current Build:

    TL-1 "Indian Chief"


  10. #20
    Member Island_Moose's Avatar
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    With the various gaps you've shown on the neck-body connection, I would use a very flat wood file to square all of the edges on the body, then square up the neck pocket surfaces. Check the fit again, and if any gaps are more than 1/2mm, I would removed material in minute amounts from the neck until the gaps are minimal. Any effects on the position of the neck relative to the bridge can be compensated for easily. Avoid taking any material from the bottom of the neck if possible, as this will change the angle of the fretboard leaving the guitar, which has presumably been set at the factory (although you can check this as well).

    Having said all of this, if your finish treatment involves an opaque finish in this area, then down worry, just glue it up, fill the gaps, and you will never see them again.
    Island_Moose
    aka John

    Completed Builds:

    FS-1G "Starcaster" Tribute - G.O.T.M October 2015


    Current Build:

    TL-1 "Indian Chief"


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