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Thread: Rooks RCA-4!!!

  1. #11
    Member rook's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brendan View Post
    Looking great - BTW - your girlfriend's nail block can be great for getting a nice polish on some surfaces (especially CA glue) - the grits seem to be just right.
    Thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated!

  2. #12
    Member rook's Avatar
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    I was actually impressed by the quality of the bridge that came with the kit. I worried it might be a little flimsy, but once I had it in my hands I was surprised by how hefty it was. I would have been happy sticking with this bridge.

    Nonetheless, I impulsively ordered a classic Rick-style bridge and I finally have it in my hands. And wow it is HUGE and HEAVY:


    Looks like I'll need to route out a pocket for this bridge to sit flush. I don't have a router so I plan on using my rotary tool. I'll be honest, this part intimidates me a little... Off to measure the bridge placement and figure out how I'm gonna do this...

    Oh, on a positive note - The neck fits in the pocket beautifully. I couldn't have asked for a better fit!

  3. #13
    Member rook's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    Careful going much higher than 320, it can cause issues with stain penetration as the wood surface gets too "polished" and the stain won't take. 240-320 should be fine for it, again depending on stain type.
    Have you checked for glue spots etc? These can be problematic as they will repel stain and stick out like a dog's whatsits. If you find these you can usually get them out with a product called Goof Off and a small clean manual wire brush.
    This is good to know. I didn't realize I could polish the wood too far before stain. I'll stop at 320 grit. Thanks for the heads-up on that!

    I'm using aniline wood dyes for the stain. A walnut and black are what I have. Considering hand rubbing a burst, but need to do some reading on that first.

    As far as I can tell, there's only one glue spot - a very small one on the edge, but the face and back of the guitar both are very clean. I guess I got lucky with that.

    Mid sand with 220 - next and final stop 320:
    Last edited by rook; 13-01-2018 at 12:04 AM.

  4. #14
    Overlord of Music Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Glue spots are more prevalent on veneered bodies, as obviously the veneer is held on by the stuff! But even on non-veneered kits you do get the occasional glue marks near the binding or the occasional sticky fingerprint from someone handling it with less than clean hands.

    All looking good.

  5. #15
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    I'd check back on some of the other build threads for these basses. Others have used those bridges and I think they've found that the action is too high and they've had to recess the bridge slightly. I might be wrong, I've been on the site for years and seen a lot of builds and memory gets a bit murky after a while.
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  6. #16
    Member rook's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fretworn View Post
    I'd check back on some of the other build threads for these basses. Others have used those bridges and I think they've found that the action is too high and they've had to recess the bridge slightly. I might be wrong, I've been on the site for years and seen a lot of builds and memory gets a bit murky after a while.
    Hey @fretworn I wasn't sure about that either. I may be wrong, but as far as I can tell, this is the protocol for using the Allparts Rickenbacker bridge with the RCA-4 kit:

    1) Measure instrument scale length and determine bridge placement.
    2) Mark placement and route a pocket for the underside of the bridge (see pic below to understand reason for pocket)
    3) Place bridge. Clamp neck. And string instrument to determine current string height.
    4) Based on current height (with saddles at their lowest placement), determine thickness of neck shim needed to deliver the desired string height.

    Here is a profile picture of the Allparts Rickenbacker bridge:


    Notice how the front section has the adjustment screws that hang below. These screws are why the pocket is needed.

    I may be wrong on all of this - but this is my current understanding.

  7. #17
    Overlord of Music FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Depending on where you are, one of the other builders may be able to lend you a router. it will be a slow painful process with a rotary tool, and you will need a really stable base for it to maintain an even cut depth. Most of the cutting bits available for the dremel type machines arenít really up to the task either. They are more suited for tidying up an existing cut or rout it seems.
    It can be done with chisels by hand, but itís very touchy work (having done it before I donít recommend the experience).


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  8. #18
    Member rook's Avatar
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    Pick-Ups!

    I ended up finding a ridiculous deal on a Seymour Duncan 1/4 pounder Jazz pickup.


    Decided to use it on this build, but was surprised to find it did not fit.

    A very small bit of sanding and I got it to seat nicely:


    Still have to do the Bridge pocket. Kinda procrastinating on that.
    Last edited by rook; 20-01-2018 at 07:28 AM.

  9. #19
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rook View Post
    I apologize. I'll keep it PG from now on.
    No stress - we try not to get precious - but need to keep things clean. Looks like the build is going great!

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  11. #20
    Overlord of Music Simon Barden's Avatar
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    All the PBG routs for JB pickups are for the non-standard size pickups that come with the kits so a bit of enlargement is always required when using different JB pickups. We have asked via Adam that the factory find a standard size jazz bass pickup to use, as not everyone feels confident enough to do the enlargement required, and a lot of people end up fitting replacement pickups. But nothing seems to have moved on that front so far.

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