Silent Guitar Scratch build ideas

[euroa guitars]

Hey Zandit
Interesting idea, have you thought about using a wooden archtop bridge and inserting a rod piezo into it. You'd probably need to then use a tail piece. You could also put in an electric pickup for more varied sounds. I used to do something similar when I made CGBs
I would definately go neck through for strength. As for the sides you could laminate together a few sheets of thick ply and then cut your shape out??
There is also a kit available out of china not sure though if its the same company Adam deals with??

[Simon Barden]

An acoustic type bridge is going to be by far the cheapest option - but it's not easily adjustable.

You can get items such as the Graphtec Ghost system http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands/ghost with Fender bridge type saddles that will fit in a hardtail bridge. But the saddles and pre-amp are quite expensive. StewMac seems to do them quite cheaply (compared to the UK) but then there's the postage.

I'm halfway (well probably only a quarter-way) through fitting some to a Telecaster for a friend.

[Zandit75]

Hey Zandit
Interesting idea, have you thought about using a wooden archtop bridge and inserting a rod piezo into it. You'd probably need to then use a tail piece. You could also put in an electric pickup for more varied sounds. I used to do something similar when I made CGBs
I would definately go neck through for strength. As for the sides you could laminate together a few sheets of thick ply and then cut your shape out??
There is also a kit available out of china not sure though if its the same company Adam deals with??

I did have a look at Arch top bridges, but I'm guessing with that type of design I would need to put a break angle on the neck. If I can keep the angle as shallow as possible, it will be easier to route out the neck pocket. I'm looking at this as a proof of concept design, and trying to find out what will work. Due to the narrowness of the body, I don't think I will be able to use a router for any cavities. Like Robin, I will mostly only be able to use hand tools.
Neck through design would be ideal, but to keep the costs and complexities down for this build I'll use a neck from PBG.
In regards to the sides, I was thinking MDF as an option and gluing some together. Since it's grainless, it would be easier to fill and paint in a solid colour. I'll try out the copper pipe for starters, and see how things go, it's the cheaper option at this stage.

[Zandit75]

An acoustic type bridge is going to be by far the cheapest option - but it's not easily adjustable.

You can get items such as the Graphtec Ghost system http://www.graphtech.com/products/brands/ghost with Fender bridge type saddles that will fit in a hardtail bridge. But the saddles and pre-amp are quite expensive. StewMac seems to do them quite cheaply (compared to the UK) but then there's the postage.

I'm halfway (well probably only a quarter-way) through fitting some to a Telecaster for a friend.

Wow, great looking product, but like you said, pretty expensive. It would be brilliant to be able to modify my LP build to use the existing pick ups, or just switch over to an acoustic sound at just the flip of a switch!

[Zandit75]

Whoops, looks like my eBay account has been accidentally accessed and some items from my shopping cart have been ordered!!!!
I can't understand how this has happened!!

[Simon Barden]

I hate it when that happens.

[wazkelly]

That can sometimes happen when alcohol has been or was being consumed at the time (I speak with experience also).

[Zandit75]

That can sometimes happen when alcohol has been or was being consumed at the time (I speak with experience also).

Haha, not this time around!!

[Zandit75]

Ideas and plans are still continuing.
Went into Bunnings the other day for research purposes(Photo is in the selfie thread!!) and I think I need to re-think my plan for the edging of the guitar. The foam insulation has numbers and lettering printed onto it, which looks to be pretty difficult to remove without damaging the foam. I'm thinking there could be some flex in the pipe too, being only locked in place a either end. It may not sit nicely against the body.
My next issue will come from working the timber body.
Can anyone tell me how clean a job you get from using an angle grinder to shape their guitar bodies? Initially, I'm looking at a 90x90mm lump of timber that will need to be shaped similar to the Yamaha body shown on the first page. Would this be too much material to remove using the angle grinder using sanding discs, or would it be better to cut some material off first?
Looking from the front of the guitar, I'm aiming to keep the full width of 90mm at the saddle, but it will taper down to the neck join which is roughly 55mm on an LP neck.
From the Saddle to the rear of the guitar it will also taper, but this could be anything depending on my preference at the time.
From side on, the back of the body will also be reduced some, approx 70mm to allow for the pickup control box, and narrowing to the neck again, and similar to the rear.
I do have access to an electric planer at work, but I've never used it, so some practice would be in order. We also have an electric belt sander too, so that would theoretically keep the sides of the body straighter than an angle grinder.
Suggestions would be appreciated!

[FrankenWashie]

Yeah, grab some scrap wood. Attempt upon it, what you intend for your guitar body and then make your mind up.
There are specific carving discs and stuff you can buy in varying degrees of cut, but I can't imagine that would be all easy to handle if you've not done it before.

Cutting down to the overall rough shape and then using the belt sander sounds safer and easier to me.