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Thread: ES-1Q Semi-hollow Kit

  1. #21
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    the dingo wax is good on open grain boards. being very thick it fills a bit..It takes some rubbing in but it does give a nice finish. For the binding, any paint that is compatible with the clear you are going to use will work. I've used water based modelling paints under both Tru oil and auto acrylics.
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  2. #22
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Due to the global restrictions that came in last year true rosewood can no longer be exported. The fingerboard is a man made alternative. Id consider a light sanding to smooth the fingerboard out before using Dingowax or al alternative.
    Current:
    New/Replacement Scratch Lapsteel
    ES-5V

    Completed:
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    SG

  3. #23
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Haven't seen the composite stuff in person but from the photos posted in build diaries it doesn't look too good and not too durable as some folk have had weird stuff happen just by removing masking tape.
    Fret board wax is probably best bet if you want to keep it looking more like traditional rosewood and it does cake on to a harder finish compared to lemon oil which is just like giving the timber a drink.....looks good for a while but will need another drink sooner or later.
    Alternatively you could go down the Ric path and seal it with same finish being used on the back of the neck, which is probably what I would do.
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
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    # 7 - ES-1 http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...t=8608&page=14

  4. #24
    Mentor Adam Barnes's Avatar
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    I put dingo wax on before masking tape and it stoped any of it pulling up then did it again after the frets were leveled and the fret board sanded with some 1200 wraped around a very small chisel

  5. #25
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Makes sense

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    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
    # 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 under construction https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
    # 7 - ES-1 http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...t=8608&page=14

  6. #26
    Member blinddrew's Avatar
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    In retrospect, i would recommend that approach.

  7. #27
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    Some progress has been made for the last few days...
    -Tried avocado oil on fretboard. (couldn't resist working on my kit..) seems okay. Used steelwool and it worked like magic, fretboard is not much better.
    -woodfiller for neck joints/ sanded the next day to smooth out.
    -First rough coat sanded roughly.

    My next step is to sand the body lightly again then apply black wood stain.
    *Not sure about the best way to protect binding. There are cracks on binding it self which I cannot remove once stain gets in..
    Seems like masking tape, then scraping is the most common way.
    Last edited by danielcstudio; 09-07-2018 at 06:09 PM.

  8. #28
    I have other issue now which seems quite crucial.
    I got gold hardware and it fit very tight on those pre-drilled holes.
    I just got a chrome replacement(from pitbull guitar) and it does fit but slight loose so it won't stay.. What should I do..? Should I try buying a new chrome hardware?

  9. #29
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Hi Daniel, are you talking about a replacement bridge and tailpiece?
    Current:
    New/Replacement Scratch Lapsteel
    ES-5V

    Completed:
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    SG

  10. #30
    Yes. So I got a chrome hardware(also from pitbull guitar)and it is loose but the gold hardware which I got with the kit was tight fit.

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