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Thread: Daveyob first build diary TLA-1

  1. #31
    Overlord of Music Simon Barden's Avatar
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    There are two methods of fitting the neck pickup to a Tele, unfortunately the PBG uses the method that isn't right for the PBG kit. The mounting kit for the TLA-1 is for the other method where the pickup is attached to the pickguard. There are two holes for the mounting bolts to fit through, then fit the springs over the bolts on the undersides and then screw the bolts into the pickup mounting lugs. It make it a lot easier to adjust the height of the pickup and the pickup will be at the right height for the strings.

    The other (original Fender) method requires using foam rubber under the pickup and much longer mounting screws, and you'd use a pickguard without the two holes by the neck pickup cut-out.
    Build #1 ES-3 under construction http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6489
    Build #2 EX-1 (with alder body) Yet to start. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...093#post123093
    Build #3 Customised ES-1 for an ES-330 style build. On order, expected November.

  2. #32
    Thanks Simon
    I'm not quite clear on this though. My pickgaurd does have the holes by the neck pickup cut out so I imagine I'm not going with that foam rubber technique. However, given that the pickup doesn't clear the top of the cavity, I'm currently thinking that my only option is to chock up the pickup so that it sits in to the pickgaurd for positioning, and then hope that the screws will be long enough to raise it above the cavity. (Not sure if there are longer screws in the kit or if the ones I have will be long enough).

    So at this stage, it still looks to me as though I have to temporarily lift the pickup off the base of the cavity in order to get it fitted in to the pickgaurd for positioning screw holes. So if that were the case, I'd follow the steps in that video with that additional measure added in. But perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you wrote. Apologies if I am. Is there perhaps an alternate video guide, (or do the PBG guys need to update theirs)? By 'attached to the pickgaurd', do you mean stuck up in to it so that the correctly positioned pickgaurd, then correctly positions the pickup?

  3. #33
    Overlord of Music Simon Barden's Avatar
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    There are a lot of BPG videos that need updating. A lot have been removed and are yet to be replaced and some of those still remaining could do with revising (which probably means re-shooting the video rather than just a section for consistency).

    The neck pickup should simply be attached to the pickguard in the way the bridge pickup is attached to the bridge plate. It's the same way that Strat pickups are connected to the pickguard - but as the PBG kit Strats have pre-wired pickguards, there isn't a video showing this. From the side, looking along the plane of the pickguard, the pickup installation should look like this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So first you really need to play the pickup in the neck cavity, run it's cable to the control cavity. solder the pickup to the selector switch and the screen to the back of the volume pot. Only, then, only once you are ready to fit the pickguard, do you fit the pickup to the pickguard.
    Build #1 ES-3 under construction http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6489
    Build #2 EX-1 (with alder body) Yet to start. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...093#post123093
    Build #3 Customised ES-1 for an ES-330 style build. On order, expected November.

  4. #34
    Hi all

    With my TLA-1 build I'm pretty much all done and up to setup stage. I'm getting some buzzing (and on some strings no note change) over the first five frets. I wasn't sure if this was a truss rod thing given that normally those issues are in the middle of the neck rather than at one end. So I wondered if anyone had any advice on what might typically cause those issues at the headstock end of the neck.

    The neck looks pretty straight but I could be convinced that it drops down a little bit at the headstock end. Maybe? I guess the other factors are the height of the saddles (but the strings are fine towards the bridge end) or the height of the nut?

  5. #35
    Overlord of Music Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Yes, you could have some back-bow which can cause an issue like that. If you get a long-ish straight metal edge, then if it's got a back bow, then you should be able to rock it backwards and forwards over the crown (which should be somewhere around the 7th fret). If it's flat or got a normal concave bow, then the straight-edge won't rock but will just sit flat on the frets or sit with a small gap between it and the frets in the middle.

    Ideally you'd test the neck, rather than the frets, by using a notched straight edge (PBG now sell one https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ge-for-guitar/) as it could be a fret height issue - though it doesn't sound like it.

    I'd try loosening the truss-rod a bit, that's an anti-clockwise movement. No more than turn at a time and bring the strings back in tune after each turn. Wait 15 minutes or so to give the neck time to settle, then test it to see if the problem's cured. If not, repeat.

    If the truss rod nut becomes very loose, then you won't get any more adjustment from it. But that's another matter, so test the neck and try loosening the truss rod to get a small amount of concave bow in the neck, then get back to us.
    Build #1 ES-3 under construction http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6489
    Build #2 EX-1 (with alder body) Yet to start. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...093#post123093
    Build #3 Customised ES-1 for an ES-330 style build. On order, expected November.

  6. #36
    Hi

    I've pretty much finished my TLA-1 build. The guitar looks great and I decided to take it to a local music store to get them to finish the set up, just so I knew it was done properly and the potential of the guitar was maximised. There are a couple of issues that they identified, and I think I'm going to press on and try to keep improving the instrument. But rather than pay around $300 to get these extra things done by someone else, I'd like to try and do it myself if possible. So these are the things I have to consider that I would appreciate anyone's advice on.

    1) They suggested that I finish the fretboard with the same colourless DingoTone finish that I used on the neck itself, otherwise it will become very dirty and stained. Is this something that most of you guys do? If I do it, should I just wipe it on between the frets and try to avoid getting any finish on the frets.

    2) The action is now pretty high. They think I might need a new nut, or to take the nut out and grind it down a bit. Any tips on how best to approach this, and also suggestions for the ideal string heights I should be aiming for?

    3) They reported back that the truss rod is quite stiff and difficult to adjust. So they couldn't quite get the concave bow they thought was ideal. One suggestion was to remove the truss rod and try to lubricate it a bit. I have no idea if this is a good idea or how to do that.

    4) They thought that the neck may not have been perfectly aligned and could be shimmed. This one might be out my league. Not sure how to measure and judge what a good outcome is.

    So any advice on any of these potential areas to improve the guitar would be awesome.

    Thanks

  7. #37
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    General practice around here is to oil to fingerboard (Dingowax, Doctor Ducks, etc) rather than "finishing" the neck. I haven't don't have any guitars with a maple fretboard, but this works fine for rosewood.

    I think Gavmeisters early post on setting up the guitar covered issues 2 & 4, I'll see if I can find it and link to it.

    I've never heard anyone suggest "remove and oil" the trussrod before. This would be a major dismantling of the neck. Adjust the nut first, you should probably be able to get the action fixed via the shim if and when you get to it.
    Current:
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  8. #38
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Current:
    New/Replacement Scratch Lapsteel?

    Completed:
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    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

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  9. #39
    Awesome. Thanks!!

  10. #40
    Overlord of Music Simon Barden's Avatar
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    "Remove and oil" just refers to the trussrod nut, a method that can be used if you are getting limited movement on the trussrod adjustment before it all goes too stiff to move. It has been mentioned quite a few times on the forum before.

    Sometimes the reason it goes stiff is that you have run out of thread for the nut to work on - or the nut (which should have a long barrel) is screwed right down onto the end of the trussrod so can't move any further. In these instances, oiling isn't going to do anything for you.

    But sometimes the reason it can get stiff to turn is that there is a damaged thread, or a bit of grit or metal swarf has got into the thread. So undoing the nut, blowing on the end of the rod and into the nut to move any dirt, then putting a small amount of oil on the nut before replacing it to reduce friction, can sometimes get you sufficient adjustment to set the neck up properly. No guarantees here, but it has been known to work on some necks.
    Build #1 ES-3 under construction http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6489
    Build #2 EX-1 (with alder body) Yet to start. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...093#post123093
    Build #3 Customised ES-1 for an ES-330 style build. On order, expected November.

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