Yes.....that will work nicely..
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Well I did the mock build (with the original white pickguard):
And a closer look on the body:
Although I really like the way it turned out - I will need to relic the other parts as well (the pick guard which is less of a problem than the hardware and the neck...), so i guess I will leave the relic for my next build and finish this one as intended, Ultra Marine blue with 3 ply black/white/black pickguard and EMG-P active pickup.
Great job on the shaping Shimmix!
You can mark out your pup positions and the mask off around them with tape.
Put a drill hole near one of the corners and use a coping saw to rough out the basic shape, staying well inside your guidelines.
Once you’ve got the bulk of it out you can use your dremel to get closer to the final shape and hand files and small sanding blocks to square every thing up to the final size. It’s either that or get an Ozito trim router or Ryobi 400w from the big green shed. I think th y are about $90.00 at the moment. (I’m assuming you are in Australia here).
The bevel will be tricky without a router, but from memory you can get 45 degree bits for the dremel and a small “router ish” attachment to hold the unit straight up and down. You’d want to set up a very stable work platform and a spacer around your scratch plate to keep the dremel level.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
Good job on the shaping!
#001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
#002 (WL-1)
#003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
#004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
#005 (LP jr)
#006 (TL-1A)
Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
'The TGS Special'
I'd use the old pickguard as a guide for the location of the pickup holes.
I painted the body today, 2 layers of Ultra Marine blue- wet sand between layers
If you look closely you can still see the grains, that will prevent me from achieving this glass like shine I'm after,
so I guess I will need to go over the entire process again, sand it back to the bare wood, refill, shellac, the whole nine yard.
Using orbital sander will work? (I mean it will make my life much easier for sure, but will it leave marks on the wood?)
Thanks
A random orbital sander is normally fine, a straight rotary one will tend to leave marks. This is where you find that you should have used at least one more coat of grain filler, as it makes this part so much easier. Something to remember for your next kit!
You can either go the whole way back, or you can build on what you've already done and sand back until you are almost back to the bare wood, and then spray more blue over the top, and use the existing paint to help fill the grain lines. Then sand back to a similar state and respray. Repeat this until you get to a flat surface with a uniform colour and you're then ready for the clearcoat.