Hi Woks, Normal TOM taipiece. there seems to be a block extending down past the tailpiece area, will confirm when I start cutting holes I suppose.
Hi Woks, Normal TOM taipiece. there seems to be a block extending down past the tailpiece area, will confirm when I start cutting holes I suppose.
Tony
haha ok no worries Tony, hope the block is wide enough. You will find out. Worse comes to worse you could install a trapeze tailpiece or use a wrap around bridge
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Oh yeah, this is great. Let me know if you need help with the lit up orange.
'As long as there's, you know, sex and drugs, I can do without the rock and roll.'
You will be definitely hearing from me Pabs.
Tony
So after a bit of google searching found and ordered some fibre optic fretlight kits to have a play with. One in white and a colour changeable one ( only $15 a piece) 9v powered so will fit in with what I had planned as far as power supply. Think it has made up my mind to go the whole hog and replace the fretboard and do lit markers and inlay so ordered an ebony one off pitbull this arvo. Now to work through the plastic inserts and colour.
Tony
Pablo as the plastics guru,do you have a recommendation as a material that may be suitable for the inlays. Would have to be on the thinner side I suppose, so that could bend to suit the shape of the top of the guitar. looking at possibly ledging the body to try and get flush to the top.
Tony
Started trialing how to work the colour out. Blacked a test piece of maple and sanded back. used some white acrylic and a touch of black colourtone, then added a swagload more white as man does one drop of black go a long way. thinned a bit to try and get a semi translucent finish.
Think I need to try and leave the flame darker and a little less opaque to get close.
Tony
Uhhhm!. While my auto sense iron is fantastic for doing work shirts pretty crap for rosewood. Spent an hour trying to get enough heat in to lift the board but to no avail. So chiseled down to thin the fretboard and will have another crack on the weekend and hope to get more heat into it
Tony
Now THAT's relic-ing!
Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
Build 15 PBG-2-
Build 14 FTD-1
Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
Build 12 DM-1S
Build 11 MKA-2 -
Build 10 Basic strat
Build 9 JM Kustom
Build 8 FV-1G
Build 7 ES-2V
Build 6- Community prototype
Build 5 LP-1LQ
Build 4 ES-5V
Build 3 JR-1
Build 2 GD-1
Build 1 TLA-1
Hi Tony,
I have had success doing a trans-black finish using a weak colortone mix (in water) and then oing back over with a clean wet rag to draw the colour out of the non-flame parts. The colour stays in the flame but is removed quite alot from the rest. You can do this in several passes, each time building up the darkness of the flame and reducing everywhere else. The black does build up in the non-flame wood over time, but it was a matter of working until the lighter areas were where i needed them. Something to consider anyway.
cheers,
Gav.
--
Build #01: BC-1
Build #02: ST-1
Build #03: JR-1DC
Build #04: ES-2V
Build #05: ESB-4 (GOTM July 2014)
Build #06: RC-1
Build #07: MK-2
Build #08: TLA-1
Build #09: JR-1DC
Build #0A: LPA-1
Build #0B: STA-1 (GOTM April 2015)
Build #0C: MKA-2
Build #0D: LP-1M
Build #0E: JB-1
Build #0F: FS-1
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