Hi ihasmario, there is always a fix of some kind. Mate post some snaps. it could be that the neck angle is a bit out or the neck has a lot of forward bow.
Hi ihasmario, there is always a fix of some kind. Mate post some snaps. it could be that the neck angle is a bit out or the neck has a lot of forward bow.
Tony
Pictured: Bridge pulling up under tension, bridge action way too high, nut action a little too high (but not too bad), bridge shown where it is now (after I reduced the scale length, having had it all the way out and still being over 20 cents sharp on basically everything and pulling up even more), side profile of the guitar.
The only potential fix I can think of right now will basically brick the guitar if it fails - i.e. glue the bridge posts inside the guitar all the way down and then go from there.
Other than that I am at a total loss. I've been through multiple attempts to intonate the guitar, and the best I can get is just about everything backed off all the way, with horrendously sharp notes.
I can't fix it for the life of me and it's sucked all of the enjoyment of playing this particular guitar - hence why there's knobs missing on it right now: I don't care about it enough to replace them.
It's worth a lot in parts, and it was a total bitch to wire up - but is totally unplayable for me.
If you get the chance, bring her up and I will have a look at it for you mate.
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Hey yeah DB, I'll take you up on that offer some time soon. I'm at a total loss with this one.
I'll bring up my double bass WIP to get your advice for woodworking the boosters while I'm there too
No worries buddy, just yell out when you are ready
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Was there a solution?
I am having similar issues on a bog standard ST-1. So I am looking for ideas.
Col.
I admit that I am an agent of Satan, however, my duties are largely ceremonial.
\m/
Hey Rabz, is the saddle wound all the way back?
If so, you can gain a bit more wiggle room by spinning the saddle 180.
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
I'll give that a go tonight.
Fixing the nut slot on Low E got the 12th from "F" back to about 20 cent sharp, but the saddle is against the spring.
Col.
I admit that I am an agent of Satan, however, my duties are largely ceremonial.
\m/
maybe a fine route and inset the bridge a bit?
Stan's LP Build for my Sister: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3146
Benson Pickup Strat mod: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5229
Epiphone LP headstock fix: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3410
Martin Backpacker Repair: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=5038&page=3
'57 Harmony Jazz guitar project: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2972
So a modicum of success.
Started at first principals and re-tensioned truss rod.
Checked nut heights. OK.
This led to some improvements - A D G all intonate now. (B & High E were OK previously).
So on to Low E.
Looked at "spinning Saddle 180°" but I can't see how you can do that on a stock ST-1 bridge.
While I had it apart, I removed the spring and that gave me enough travel.
So that prompts the question - what does the spring do? When under string tension the saddle is pretty well fixed in place. Is it a "slap and rattle" spring?
In any case I'll dig through the ol' bits box and find a spring that I'll cut to length.
Col.
I admit that I am an agent of Satan, however, my duties are largely ceremonial.
\m/
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