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Thread: ESB-4SC First Build

  1. #81
    In the GR-1SF diagram above all the black wires are 'ground' connections and the other colours are all 'hot'. So, linking that to the jack example in my previous post, the green 'hot' would be the inner core and the black 'ground' would be the outer braid.

    The positioning of the components is obviously different on your ESB-4SC, so it will be possible to streamline the layout and wiring connections to better suit your braided wire. If you want I can try drawing up a layout for you that should help with the connections and how to route the braided wire. Let me know.
    Scott.

  2. #82
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hey Weirdy I just saw the pic you added yesterday, is that the back of ur LP avatar ? Looks like you connected braided wire to the pickups ?
    Did you connect the braided wire to the internals of the pup or connect to shortened existing wires from the pups ?
    Very tidy installation. I see you haven't copper shielded the control cavity. I know this build was probably done a few years ago though
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  3. #83
    Nah Woks, it's just an image I grabbed off the 'net. I wanted a nice clear example of using braided wire and that was one of the better ones.
    Scott.

  4. #84
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    haha no worries Weirdy, I know you would shield your cavities. Plus your LP on your avatar probably has dark burst line on the back as well
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  5. #85
    Hi weirdbits,

    Thank you for your offer. That would be super helpful.

    Thank you
    Bass Player from London, England:

    Current Build ESB-4SC

  6. #86
    It's only rough, but hopefully this will work as a guide for your braided wiring (viewed from the back).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    red = solder point
    green = hot core
    black = inner insulation
    dark grey = outer braid

    The braid carries the ground connection from the output jack across the backs of the pots all the way up to the toggle switch. The diagram is configured with independent volumes, like a bass normally is, so when both pickups are on turning down one pickup's volume doesn't affect the other. If you'd rather have it like a guitar with linked volumes (like the GR-1SF diagram), where in the middle position zero volume on one pup mutes both, then connect the pickup hots (+) to the left lug and the green cores to the middle lug.

    Setup a full size cardboard template with accurate positions of the holes and then start wiring it up from there. Remember that you have to feed it all in through one of the cavities, so the wiring needs to be robust enough to withstand it. Connect your pickups last. If you're feeding the harness in through the bridge pup cavity, connect the bridge pickup and then feed the neck pup wire in through its cavity and out through the bridge cavity then connect it. Then feed the harness in, ideally using tubing, and secure it all in place. Don't forget the tailpiece ground wire.

    Good luck and ask any questions.


    Edit: I should mention that in the above diagram the master tone is on the 'out' side of the master volume, which may not suit everyone. If you'd prefer the modern style with the tone on the 'in' side of the volume then you'll need an alternate diagram.
    Last edited by WeirdBits; 27-11-2015 at 12:14 PM.
    Scott.

  7. #87
    Hi Scott!

    Thank you so much. That makes so much more sense for me.

    The diagram is configured with independent volumes, like a bass normally is, so when both pickups are on turning down one pickup's volume doesn't affect the other.
    That works for me perfectly! Thank you

    I should mention that in the above diagram the master tone is on the 'out' side of the master volume, which may not suit everyone. If you'd prefer the modern style with the tone on the 'in' side of the volume then you'll need an alternate diagram.
    What do you mean by that?
    Bass Player from London, England:

    Current Build ESB-4SC

  8. #88
    Vintage style wiring has the tone after the volume (like my diagram), so on the volume's 'out'. Modern style wiring has the tone before the volume, so on the volume's 'in'. There are pro's and con's for both styles, and some people have a particular preference. Here's a good explanation of the differences, although it's referring to guitars.

    I just wanted to point out how my diagram was configured, so if you wanted modern style wiring then I'll need to draw up another version.
    Scott.

  9. #89
    Mentor Nickosaurus's Avatar
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    i'm just about to wire up my loom for my ESB-4 build too. Good luck brother. We'll both need it to get that bloody input jack in position

  10. #90
    Wow Life does get a happy of getting in the way. There has been very little progress on the build. Still a few coats away on the top from polishing. Getting there.

    Weirdbits it took me a little bit to really understand what was going on. i really appreciate your help. I do have a few questions though.

    First obvious question: Is there a reason why the GR-1SF diagram has two caps on the master tone pot and the one you created for me just one?

    Regarding the Vintage Wiring I like the fact there is no treble roll-off when you roll off the volume control but I was wondering if the tone control's effect inconsistency is really noticeable?

    Then again with the modern wiring is the treble roll off when decreasing the volume very noticeable?

    Regarding the tail piece ground. Will the tail screw being in contact with the wire enough to ground it?

    Thank you again
    Bass Player from London, England:

    Current Build ESB-4SC

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