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Thread: JM 1 Custom Kit

  1. #81
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Yeah but normally the screws come through the control plate and screw into the switch - it doesn't need to mount in the wood at all, you just need to add the two screw holes.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
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  2. #82
    Overlord of Music Dedman's Avatar
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    I'd thin it a bit from inside, then as Sonic said, drill the mounting screw holes right through, use some nice stainless screws and washers and it will look OK.
    Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
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  3. #83


    Went down the routing route as my friend got a new trim router...had to test it out. So tele control plate on top now and modified scratchplate


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  4. #84


    My scale length seems to be out a bit. Would this make much of a difference when playing high?

    Not sure how I stuffed this up, was certain I checked before I finished.


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  5. #85


    My scale length seems to be out a bit. Would this make much of a difference when playing high?

    Not sure how I stuffed this up, was certain I checked before I finished.


  6. #86
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Is it 24.75" scale as that translates into 628.65 mm or about 309.33 from 12th fret to high E bridge saddle?
    25.5" scale is 647.7 mm which tends to suggest you may have a shorter G scale happening and therefore not too far off.
    Still best to measure full scale length from inner side of nut just to be sure.

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  7. #87
    Some progress with the build. Put the neck on and intonation seems fine. I read on another diary yesterday people obsessing with measuring from inside the nut to 12th, then 12th to bridge instead of the full nut to high E bridge saddle. I now 2nd this advice! A lot of worry for nothing

    The neck wasn’t the tightest fit but I was happy enough with alignment etc so screwed it in.

    This was also the first time I tired a different wiring system, the tone pot is push pull and so I can change from double humbuckers to single coils, definitely worth it, I’m surprised how good they sound. It took well over 2 hours for me to do and I’m not great at soldering.



    I put the bigsby on and some flats but it needs a good proper setup. It’s playable though and sounds great, dead happy with it.

    I got the dingotone bone nut in but it still needs sanded down a little more. The tusq bridge saddles are on too, I haven’t played them in yet.




    Never upgraded tuners before but the Grover’s seem to be great so far. Really smooth



    I do have one question, where the hell do I put the string trees on this upside down headstock!? I assume somewhere around the B tuner back from the nut on the low E and A strings as they don’t have much of an angle with the nut? Another tree on the D and G string?





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  8. #88
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    That is a beaut FS. Really lovely work, well done!
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  9. #89
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    This is cool as, what a great looking guitar. String trees might not be necessary? Where you have that one in the pic looks about right to me, but someone else may know better.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

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